Not sure if this has been asked here before but I was watching second stage again and this thought came across my mind. Wouldn't it be really easy to blow the engine if you tested it without a tachometer? wouldn't it be kinda impossible to get the suspension right if it isn't driven on the limit?
The AC motor on my lathe recently burned out and I decided I'm going to switch it with a DC treadmill motor, because that's what I have. I have a basic circuit diagram but I want to add a tachometer and I need help with that final piece of the puzzle. How can I wire up the tachometer without having to power it separately. I'm thinking I'll need another bridge rectifier but I also think I'll need some sort of resistance to lower the voltage. Any help is greatly appreciated.
https://preview.redd.it/kjh601edzqf61.png?width=1280&format=png&auto=webp&s=c6970cb9c65b9e5418b69a6e5a5a620bf0dbc3bb
So I’ve been driving an early 00s Ranger 5spd for a couple weeks now and i can drive it fine without stalling it, but I have encountered one oddity: there’s no tachometer. deciding when to shift is COMPLETELY based on audio queues.
Is there any way to make more informed shifting decisions? Should I memorize the gearing?
I understand what the tachometer does. And twenty years ago, when I was learning to drive a manual, it was convenient to have.
But most of my cars since then have been automatics. And not even "performance" - focused automatics, at that. Right now, I'm driving a 2017 Chevy Cruze and, as great as that car is, there's nothing "performance" about a sensible compact sedan.
So why is the tachometer so prominent on my dashboard? Is it just that Chevy is using the same gauge cluster as they do on higher performance lines, and they didn't bother to design a different one?
My truck does not have a rpm gauge how can I get one?
For those with the XSE Premium, you can chose to show the tachometer on the HUD.
I finally had the chance to try it out today, and it seems pretty cool. I found it actually difficult to hit above 2K RPM on the highway unless I started pressing firmly. (Driving in ECO)
Something I've noticed recently is that they seem to disagree. At least in the Porsche 991.2, the cockpit's shift lights will start blinking blue (which I assume means to shift) before the UI tachometer even goes yellow (after which it goes red, then flashes red shortly before hitting the limiter).
So should I be shifting when the car tells me to, or when I'm as close to the limiter as possible according to the game?
Also semi-unrelated but if anyone knows how to get the car's shift lights into the bonnet view, I'd be grateful. I'm able to get the rest of the dash, but ideally I'd like to disable the UI tach cluster entirely.
Hi,
Looking for sim dash options that do not require a tablet or a phone for CSL elite on PC.
Any help or links would be greatly appreciated :)
Thanks
Check out what I did to my 2014 Mazda3 i Grand Touring!
Upgrade list so far:
Fog Lights
18" 2018 wheels
2018 CMU and Screen
Android Auto mod
2018 Back bumper
46V Soul Red Crystal paint
Gauge cluster with tachometer and HUD
https://preview.redd.it/k7ldtq8ujse61.jpg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8a0ccc194d70e1f0e103c5ff55d90add74e7cac7
https://preview.redd.it/7sja1z9yjse61.jpg?width=3264&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d10cb1ba28dadc68a55ce16df54b86a89b0553ee
My 99 civic tachometer stopped working properly a while back, and I'm trying to figure out if there's an easy fix. Basically, my tachometer jumps around and doesn't really ever have a consistent reading. My actual RPMs aren't affected, and the car drives just fine. But the needle sometimes jumps around wildly, or doesn't move at all. I'm about to put the car up for sale and wonder if it's worth taking the time + money to fix it.
2012 Kia Sorento
Just got the vehicle back from the mechanic after they replaced the Crank Shaft sensor based on the check engine light code.
But it’s still having issues. Previously it would be hard to start and stall at stops, but just had it stall out while driving. There was a thunk and the car jerked to stop (I was only going 20-25). But drove fine once I got it started (just with the light and lack of tach reading).
Check engine light hasn’t come back on, but it was intermittent before. Gas mileage seems to be better from running a couple errands today (stalled twice), we got 70 miles on 3/4 tank of gas before getting the crank shaft sensor replaced.
What could be going on?
Hye. Sorry if this is a bit off topic. But i’ve been trying to connect the tachometer gauge to my simulator but end up the gauge won’t even respond. I’m using it with arduino. Managed to upload it to simhub but end up the gauge won’t even respond when I’m trying to test the max rpm.
I'm finally greenlighting my instrument cluster project here: https://i.redd.it/chfqjkimlxq51.jpg. Should I get the new speedometer or tachometer first to get myself going?
Hi,
did anyone tried using your phone as a Odometer Speedometer Tachometer ?
Reliably, with a Fp3 or similar,
I saw V&H does have a read-only version of the FP3,
Or any other I don't know about ?
I really love the little red light tachometer on my Vega 64 LC. It's a great feature. It was on the Fury X too I think. At a glance I can see how stressed my GPU is. I think it should be on all future Radeon graphics cards.
I would really love to see a more advanced tachometer on it that displays numbers. Like this NZXT CPU cooler does. That would be awesome.
https://www.nzxt.com/products/kraken-z63
Sup guys i just got a tachometer and in the manual it asks for a firing pattern. Spark plug fires twice per revolution, once per revolution, or every other revolution. What do i choose? I got a mb200 with a honda clone 196cc standard engine. Thanks guys
Hello so ive got a 4 stroke small engine from a mini bike(honda clone similar to predator engine) and i would like to check the rpm so i can adjust the idle so i purchased a tachometer but it is asking me does the spark plug fire twice per revolution, once per revolution, or every other revolution and i am not sure what to choose. I have been seeing alot of mixed opinions on this i feel like it should be a basic thing but i am not sure. Thank you! Please ask for more detail if needed
First stick shift I’ve ever owned, a lot of experience driving diesel manuals but not so much gas like what I have now (2002dodge Ram) I feel like the big international diesels I used to drive were a lot easier to drive when it came to the trans part of it, use the clutch to takeoff, then after awhile I would just float gears all the way up, my dodge took a little while to get used to but after like 2-3 weeks I have but at night not being able to see my tach messes with me, I can still drive don’t get me wrong, it’s annoying o guess I should fix it, but my dash is already cracking and crumbling so I’d have to buy a whole new dash to replace that light because when I take mine out it’s not gonna go back in, making that light bulb rather expensive
Took the M20C out yesterday and got an interesting sound out of it. Right after setting up for cruise the RPMs jumped up to ~3k and then back to 2300 then bounced around. I suspect a tach cable as I’ve seen very similar in motorcycles. Anyone seen anything like that? I feel like it could easily be lubed.
I did ride my bike that day which was about 30 miles and experience no problems.
Is anyone else having this issue, it doesnt happen in other games at all.
I have a predator 212 with a modified jet, autolite spark plug AR3910X, and air filter I am wondering what is the correct firing pattern? I have the tachometer at 1p2r equivalent to 4 stroke 1 cylinder. The RPM is at 4500 on idle. I am wondering if it is correct as I feel it is dangerous if it is this high. Does it take time for the new engine to settle? I think my tachometer I just didnt set it right.
https://www.hardlineproducts.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/Binder1.pdf
