I’m fairly new to manuals, and I’m just wondering if I should be looking at the tachometer when upshifting/downshifting, or just playing it by ear. I made a post similar to this yesterday, but I got a variety of responses. Some people said watch the tachometer, others said to just play it by ear. Which one is correct?
2008 Civic
Posting for husband. Last night another racer had told him of an add-on that runs in the background like trading paints but it's for a tachometer display. He forgot the name. I've I tried searching for it only finding ones you buy and plug into your computer. Anyone know the name?
I need a new tachometer, I've used extech in the past and I always thought they were a product. However this last one didn't last more than 6 months. Just curious what other balancers use and would recommend. Also I need a combo photo/contact tach. Any advice would be appreciated.
Hi all, I have recently bought a replacement tachometer for my 1980 GL1100 as the glass on the original unit is cracked. After doing some research most sources seem to agree that the tachometer ratio is 1:4 for the mechanically driven tachometer on the older Goldwing. I ordered this tachometer from Amazon and when it arrived, despite fitting the tachometer cable perfectly, it showed half of the proper RPM. Did I get shipped the wrong product or is there something I am missing?
I noticed, that especially older japanese cars had tachometers with green lights. Aircrafts like the C17 or Ilyushins also have green cockpit lights.
Are there any benefits or some special reasons for using that colour? Maybe like easier to read? For example the cockpit colours of Soviet aircraft were turquoise, because it was confirmed that this colour is affecting the pilots psychologically positive.
Tach was working off and on for months. Then finally stopped entirely. But speedometer only started acting up within the past few weeks and just stopped entirely as well. Changed speed sensor, didn’t fix the issue.
Any ideas on what to try next?
I’m going to junkyard tomorrow to look. Also anything else I should look for? Thanks guys.
Hello all, this weekend i was driving my 2011 Chevy Silverado 1500 w/ a 5.3L. I hit some train tracks and my speedometer and tachometer stopped working, the speedo went down to 0 mph and stopped working and the tachometer got stuck on 3000 rpm. I noticed that all other gauges appeared to be working properly. I turned the truck on and off several times and the speedo now works correctly and the tachometer works but the 0 rpm is now at the ~3000 rpm where it left off. When io shut the truck off it goes down to 3000, when i turn it on and it does the sweeping motion it goes up and past the rpm and back down to 3000. Is there a way to recalibrate this or do i need to replace something?
My tachometer has not worked since I got the car as it was not flipped in the negative ground conversion. I just got around to switching it (white wire and internal components), however it still doesn't work. It is getting power and the gauge will jump when you move/scratch the ground line against it, but it won't read out or move when you keep the ground still.
I haven't cleaned the internal components but they look OK to me - nothing dirty or grimy or tarnished.
Does anybody know what's going on and how I can fix it?
The tachometer in my fiero is currently not working. Of course its not a huge issue but its better to be working than not. Any idea what i should do to fix this? The lights in the dash are also very dim, still working but dim, any tips?
Every time I use the tachometer repositioning mod from Race Department it crashes my game so hard that I have to reinstall and i was wondering if anyone else has had this problem or knows how to fix it PLZZZ I HATE THE ORIGINAL POSITION
Hi all. My '86 944 won't start after sitting for a while. I really want to get it back on the road. With a freshly charged battery it cranks well, but I don't hear any evidence of combustion. The fuel pump is new and there are a few gallons of fresh gas in there. I've read articles and watched videos, and it seems that I have plenty to look into. One of the first things as I understand it is to confirm if the tachometer is moving while cranking. If it is NOT moving then that indicates the reference sensors need love, right? Well, I do see a tiny bit of movement when cranking, more of a jiggle of the tach needle really. And I wasn't sure if that was enough to say, "The tach is moving while cranking"... I even removed the DME/Fuel Relay and tried again, and sure enough there was ZERO movement, no jiggle even. So, am I correct thinking that the tiny bit of movement I see on the tach is enough to eliminate the reference sensors as the culprits? Also, does this prove anything ab
... keep reading on reddit ➡Just got a yellow tachometer and but lost the win streak afterwards.Do I have to get 200 consecutive wins to get the red tachometer?Or just 100 consecutive wins to get the red tachometer?
Driving home from work this morning, and as I pull into my neighborhood I noticed my tachometer needle isn't moving as I'm accelerating. I remember it working when I started my vehicle and drove home. Could this be just a fuse? Or do I need a new guage cluster?
Update: Went out to get groceries and the tachometer sat for a second, then kicked back up to life, showing normal rpm readings. Completely unsure what was going on with it still.
Hi there! I'm planning to use an Arduino Nano for a RC nitro car radio receiver. I'm also making a matching controller, which I won't be discussing now.
My idea is to use a nRF24L01 module for radio and the MCU for driving a pair of servos and two relays. While I'm at it, I'd like to add telemetry in the form of two tachometers and two high-temp temperature probes.
The engine of the car would be running anywhere between 25k-40k RPM and I'm not sure if attaching a tachometer as an interrupt would be too much to handle for the 328p. The other tach would be reading wheel speed right out of the diff output shaft and it shouldn't be passing 8000 RPM.
What is the maximum RPM I could read without losing other tasks?
Hey all,
My tachometer cable is broken and i ended up going with an aftermarket speedo for my cm400 and was wondering where i might be able to find a tach plug for this bike. I can't seem to find one anywhere online as they're all listed for cb750's, cb500's etc. Anyone know where i could possibly get one? I'd be very grateful. Thank you all in advance.
That’s my advice you people who drive cars. Very fun fact.
I read a few posts on here, its very informative and im out of options and can’t seem to fix the issue. i recently bought a 1983 magna v65, with 16000 miles, ran alright, i took the carbs off and i am in the process of dipping each one over night, and rebuilding them, while im doing that i am also going through all the electronics since its old tech. Ive ran into a big issue with the tachometer, it does not work but if i am correct they run off one of the spark boxes, and uses the pulse from the coil to power it, im not good with electronic issues, worse comes to worse i just run without one or find an aftermarket one, but does anyone have any info on how to check these? Or to see if it’s the tachometer that is the issue, I got a wiring diagram and everything seems to be wired correctly any information will help alot and it would be appreciated, thanks
I am a process engineer, I have pretty good experience with electronics and programming (from assembly level micro controllers and analog circuits to C# on PCs and a few things in between) but I have never worked with PLC's beyond giving a control scheme to an electrician to turn into a program.
Over the past few years we have been having problems with our new lab HVAC unit leading to constant shut downs seemingly randomly. I'll spare you the details of my troubleshooting but our instrument techs who are versed in plcs couldnt fix the unit after well over a month of full time work. The manufacturer is all but useless including sending a tech that did nothing, billed us many thousands of dollars and just stonewalls us now. I worked through the unit myself as our employees are freezing. I dug into the allen bradley micro 820 PLC and found that they were trying to read a hall effect tachometer pulse train off the combustion fan with a digital input as the return of a feedback loop. From
... keep reading on reddit ➡Doing some repairs on our 1968 Mustang and noticed a problem- when revving the engine the tachometer is going the wrong way. Does anyone have any resources on fixing this issue?
I am looking for a digital tachometer for use on a motorcycle. This is not a tachometer to the instrument cluster, but for performing an idle drop procedure to adjust the fuel mixture on the carbs. This needs to be a contact tachometer that can show 50 RPM differences... Does anyone have suggestions? Everything I see with a search comes up no-contact... perhaps something that runs off one of the spark plug wires?
Last year i bought my first bike, 1982 Suzuki GS850 GL, I'll try to take a pic and post later since i did clean it up nice yesterday.
The gauges both have black "cables" screwed into them, the speedometers leads to the wire the tach to the engine. In the cables are wires with square ends, when the engine or wheel spin the wire spins, and the gauge displays the speed or revs.
Shortly after i got the bike, the Tach stopped working. that's when i found the cables, the tach cable had come unscrewed and the little wire in that must've fallen out.
I can't for the life of me find this part for sale.
And a noise started happening in the speedometer at higher speeds, 30-40+. It's not consistent, but sometimes persists for minutes, and it sounds like someone built an electric rubber duck that never stops squealing.
Now the speedometer doesn't really work, it jumps up and down depending on my speed.
Questions
- Anyone know where to find the square end wire that runs old gauges? I like the
I heard that there was an optional dash tachometer that could fit in the fourth gauge slot anyone know where i could get one
I'd like to know the rpm of my 2cv. Iam planning to get the signal from the ignition points. My question is how to best get the signal into the arduino?
Upon cold startup, what happens is the RPM needle will just sort of flicker meanwhile the speedometer needle will do the full swoop "needle dance" (When the needle goes all the way and comes back down). This happens during a cold startup but very random afterwards throughout the day. Sometimes both the RPM and speedometer will do the full needle dance but sometimes the RPM needle will stay stuck. The speedometer needle does the needle dance every single time.
The RPM itself is accurate upon start up and goes down when warmed up but I am just paranoid if this "needle dance" is going to cause issues later. Thanks!
Recently my speedometer, my tachometer, and radio stopped working as well as the ABS light coming on.
My converter was recently stolen as well as the O2 sensors connected to it? Could that be the reason this is happening? Or could it be a bad battery?
edit:The battery is still operable as well
Hey all,
My tachometer cable is broken and i ended up going with an aftermarket speedo for my cm400 and was wondering where i might be able to find a tach plug for this bike. I can't seem to find one anywhere online as they're all listed for cb750's, cb500's etc. Anyone know where i could possibly get one? I'd be very grateful. Thank you all in advance.
