Flyer is titled "Keep out the rain", says the city will send a plumber my way because these kinds of connections put strain on the sewer system. Contact lists a kcmo.org email address and claims it is part of the city's "Smart Sewer" program, so I assume it's legitimate. If so, anyone here have any experience using this service? I don't want some underpaid, overworked plumber coming over to half-ass some shit and then leave me stuck appealing to the city to get it fixed (not saying that it would be that way, I'm just wary), but I would also like to do my part, since I know the city's sewers are pretty bad in some areas.
I don't want anything. We live in a post hope world. I just want to die, there is nothing for me, nothing that anyone can offer. I work too many hours to be alive and nothing can change that.
There are no one choises in life, to keep on living in pain, exhaustion and isolation or end it all
Hey,
As part of my Senior Design Capstone Project, we're needing to find replacement options for a portion of sanitary sewer pipe that runs across a busy highway. After talking to the Engineering firm we're working with, we decided the best method to place new pipe across the highway would be through the jack and bore method.
The main issue is that on one side of the highway the sloped terrain and hills make the usual jack and bore difficult. The firm said we would need to work around this. Does anyone know how this is usually addressed, such as jacking and boring from a side angle? And if so, any references would be greatly appreciated!
Also, what is the usual pit size that is used?
Thank you for any help.
didn't use primer. Probably should have. Hoping for the best. The joints were roughed up with sand paper though
curious if anyone has seen sump pits that pipe right into the sanitary sewer if they are nearby and the sewer line is deep ? seems this might eleminate the pump or is this hazard or something ? considering a floor drain in a basement might only be say 8 inches hire than this connection ?
So my company has had a hard time coming to agreement on the best way to get the measurements to the flow lines of multiple pipes coming into a storm/sanitary sewer manhole box. Currently we take a wide blade tape and measure from the center of the lid (laying a wooden stake across the rim) and measure a hypotenuse and then approximate a horizontal leg from the flow line to a point plumb down from where we measured. Then in the office we calculate the vertical leg using Pythagorean’s theorem. Doing that for every pipe is fairly time consuming and tedious at times...so do y’all have a better method? I am open hears!
So I have been working in Land Development in NY for 4 years now and this question has always eluded me.
A minimum slope for a 8" sewer lateral is 2 percent which generates 2 FPS at 2.08E-5 CFS
According to 10 State Standard A the minimum slope of a 8 inch pipe is 0.40% and generates 2FPS at 0.38 CFS (Half Full)
My question is when you are designing say a end of the line sewer or small Subdivision that would never likely reach half full would you use a slope that the minimum expected flow would be 2 FPS or design for 2FPS at Half Full.
I know municipalities can ask for different things. But I would like to see what industry norms are.
The sewer line that runs down my driveway got clogged with a t-shirt somehow (I watched them fish it out) and filled my basement with four inches of goodness. The water mitigation costs were high, and somehow due to my “crap” agent way back when, my home owner’s insurance didn’t cover it. The city told me to take a hike when I submitted a claim (text below).
I’m no engineer, so I looked at the sewer map, then from reading up on what reference material I could find, saw this: “Gravity sewer lines shall be constructed such that the internal angle of deflection is equal to or greater than ninety (90) degrees, including connections at manholes.” Well, that’s a manhole in my driveway and that’s not 90 degrees. I also suggested that the lateral line should have been initially routed to junction 05-0081 to create an obtuse deflection angle (design best practices?). Or have at least offered up a backflow preventer to whoever owned the house back when that line was installed. Even if the cumulative flow estimation and failure probability rates for the current configuration were within design limitations, I suggested that such deviation from standard design practices should have at minimum initiated an annual sewer maintenance requirement for junction 05-0081:1, right? Do such maintenance schedules exist?
This was the response from the city: “Design of the sewer, including the approximately 78 degree angle, is not uncommon or disallowed. In fact, the Recommended Standards for Wastewater Facilities, the widely accepted Midwest policy guidance, is silent on the issue of degree of angle between sewer lines joining in a manhole.”
Do I have any leg to stand on here or are they right? I’m here in central OH. I appreciate any input.
Just curious about something while I'm waiting to hear back from my Public Services Department to get a definitive answer.
Is it possible that a basement floor drain would not be hooked up the sanitary sewer line and would instead by some sort of dry well?
The reason I ask is that every other wastewater appliance in my home (toilet, shower, sinks, washer) are hooked up to a line that exits about midway up the wall in my basement. The floor drain is of course, on the floor. Now, I understand they could be tied together outside of the home, however nothing else currently does, or ever has, drained into this floor drain.
If this floor drain was tied into the sanitary sewer and nothing drained into it, thereby causing the water in whatever trap would have existed to dry out, wouldn't my house smell awful all the time? Therefore, doesn't this basically have to be a dry well? Or is there something else at play?
Unfortunately, searching Google doesn't turn up many (or really, any) results for basement drain dry wells, so I wasn't able to get a good answer that way.
I honestly lost a little sleep thinking about this a few nights ago. From my understanding, sewers are often sloped at 1% or less, so it seems like turds would just sit there and collect until they clog up the entire sewer. Or maybe my perceptions are incorrect and turds are smaller, softer, and more easily degradable than they seem.
I don't have a problem with puns and jokes in the comments but please accompany them with information that can help me understand this.
Price Range: $25-75 USD (this can be negotiable, but total price would preferably include a lanyard, rechargeable battery and charger).
Purpose: Primary use will be field work, inspecting stormwater systems, through catch-basin grates and manholes. Preferably, it should be narrow enough to fit between catch basin grates that cannot otherwise be lifted/removed (typically a 1-1/8" to 1-1/2" opening). If it is bright enough, fitting through the grates might not be necessary.
Secondary use would be looking back up through long end-sections of stormwater pipes (typically 12"-48" diameter).
Battery Type & Quantity: Prefer 18650 rechargeable with the option for AAA/AA (1-3 batteries batts. max). Edit: I was told that combo is typically associated with crappy flashlights. So, let's go with just 18650 or just AA/AAA options.
Size: Main requirement is in regards to the overall diameter: prefer it to be able to fit between catch basin grates, so less than 1-1/2" diameter. Handheld category.
Type: Handheld only
Main Use: It would be most often carried in hand, retrieved from a vehicle when needed, or kept on my person (in a cargo pocket/utility pants side pocket). Its main use will be for illuminating into manholes and catch basins to: determine the number of inlet/outlet pipes, the diameter of those pipes, identify the basin/manhole material, and, detect illicit discharges.
This would most often occur during daytime hours, under varying weather conditions. We perform inspections pretty much anytime of the year (location = northeast US), so it can range from 90 degrees to 20 degrees (Fahrenheit), typically.
It should be waterproof or strongly water-resistant as we often work in wet weather (and there is always potential to drop it in a stream or stormwater manhole/catch basin - which is why a lanyard would be nice!).
Switch Type: Tail switch would be my personal preference, but I'm not overly concerned with the switch type.
Basically, I'm looking for a portable, long-lasting, small-diameter, very bright, water-tight, handheld flashlight that will get the job done. Adjustable beam intensity/shape would be useful. No real need for a bunch of fancy modes (strobe/red/blue/green/etc.). I've done some research before posting, but it's certainly overwhelming. Thanks for any help!
Hi all, I'm having issues getting the AECC concentric cylinder structure cone to be less than 24". I change the size paramter of SCH to include 18 and 12 but when I save out the file, the values don't update. I essential want to use the default structure but be able to change the cone size to less than 24".
Hey everyone,
I work for a small engineering firm that provides municipal services to a few of the surrounding townships and boroughs. We're getting an ArcGIS Desktop license in January, and one of the township projects that they want me to head (I'm an engineer, but also act as their "GIS guy") is taking our existing cad drawings that show sanitary sewer throughout one particular township, export it into ArcGIS, and eventually be able to make these new GIS-based maps available on the township website. Specifically, they want it so you get a little list of attributes (manhole number, gps coordinates) to show up when you hover or click on a manhole, air release valve, etc.
Has anyone done this before?
I have been calling around trying to get some work on my sump and drain done. I spoke with a guy who was recommended, and he offered that he can discharge the sump water into my sink drain. Is this a dealbreaker?
I know its illegal in my city without a permit. I don't know if I can get one, have not asked. But, my sump runs a lot. And if my neighbors decide to put 500 fluchable wipes in the sewer, I'll have a zillion gallons of sump water, plus sanitary sewer water all in my house. It seems like he's saying he can create a future disaster and maybe legal issue for me.
Also, how do you keep sewer gas out of the house in this setup?
Like I said, he was recommended, has been working on sumps for 35 years. I have had a hell of a time even finding someone who can do this kind of work.
I think I answered my own questions, but thought I'd ask.
EDIT: Most of my neighbors discharge their sumps into the sewer. Nobody has a discharge running in the street like I do. my driveway is a slimy mess, and it freezes in winter. If possible, I would like to get rid of that.
I recently found a big sewer outlet along my city's river, I went to check it out and it looked pretty cool. But I'm unsure if it leads to a storm drain or sanitary sewer. It didn't smell like anything but signs around the area said it was a sanitary sewer but I figured it might just be a way of keeping people away. Any definite way to tell?
