I recently did a data download of a old Facebook account using the Facebook download my data page. When I stuffed it in Nextcloud alongside the older one I realized some things had changed filewise on how the download files were saved.
Nextcloud is like a dropbox you host yourself.
Anyway. Today I needed to edit a rule in the modem, and my password manager lastpass was not signed in.Awww darn it. Instead of going the route of signing in I took the lazybones method of checking my Nextcloud folder knowing it was saved in there.
So I open nextcloud and do a search for ''Modem''
Get up, let the computer search and brew a coffee.
What I see when I come back makes no sense.One file was the list I needed, but nextcloud was also showing a result in... Facebook Data Export?!
So I open the folder. It's in the old Faceook downloadSecurity_and_login_information in a file called numbers that may be a profile user id
Interestingly in the NEW version of Facebook data this file does n... keep reading on reddit ➡
Why are you like this?
Folks, help me settle a debate:
As many have noticed, sometimes when you buy electronics through Walmart or Amazon, you will see that model numbers of the same exact device are slightly different than if you bought them at another store like Best Buy/Mom'n'Pop. (i.e. Netgear Modem CM700-100NAS vs CM700-1AZNAS)
My friend believes that they cut corners on build quality/internal components in order to meet price demands set by Amazon/Walmart, therefore you are actually receiving a lower quality device that simply meets the same technical specifications.
I believe, based on poking around the internet in different forums, that the only thing that is different is the packaging (saves cost when you buy in bulk to have less or cheaper packaging, obviously). But you are still receiving the same exact product.
This debate started because I was complaining that Best Buy would not price match that Netgear modem I mentioned because of the mismatch in model number. Then he said, "It's because... keep reading on reddit ➡
My router also gave me the option to clone or use my current computer MAC address, with a note stating if I clone it I need to have my computer's MAC address registered with ISP.
I've had a rocky start playing non-Quest games on the Quest. I made a post about how bad things were when I used the Link, and how loading SteamVR on top of the Link-enabled OculusVR software just seemed to slow things to a crawl (plus, you need to be tethered to the PC, obviously).
I bought Virtual Desktop, and that wasn't as bad, but the quality of my stream wasn't great, and sometimes I'd get massive frame drops or huge lags in hand tracking, and I wasn't sure if it was my PC, Virtual Desktop, the headset, or what was going on.
It was the router.
I was using the Verizon FiOS Quantum Modem/Router that came with my FiOS service, and it *is* a 5Ghz AC router with the necessary speed requirements, but I'd been meaning to upgrade my router anyhow and I had a sneaking suspicion that maybe it wasn't quite up to the task I was asking of it, so I got [this guy](https://www.netgear.com/home/produ... keep reading on reddit ➡
We had a Cisco TAC call yesterday in order to troubleshoot a VPN tunnel. Phase 1 comes up, but phase 2 never negotiates. So through a Webex I let their engineer work on the router and he wanted to create object groups to match the style of access lists on the other side of this tunnel. I didn't think it makes a difference, but I'm all for building test access lists to test this theory out, so that's what he was going to do. I sat on the call and watched him type and had a Putty log running. I was remote through a gateway to my desktop in the office. After he created a new test access list and modified the dynmap for this particular client to use the new access list, we lost all external connectivity. I was disconnected from my session and users in the office reported they no longer had internet access.Since I was remote, I had to call a coworker to just reboot the entire device. Once it was back online I was able to get back in.
Below is the Putty log for changes t... keep reading on reddit ➡
I don't know if anyone else is doing this but I wanted to share my experience.
I have an APU2 device that I have been running Pfsense on for the last year or so. Pfsense works fine but I have noticed performance issues probably related to the APU2 board. Also I got bored of it and wanted to try something else.
I've played with OPNsense and Untangle too. I liked Untangle a lot because everything was easy to setup and the performance with the APU2 was much better than Pfsense and OPNsense. I would even be happy to pay the $50/yr for the software.
However, since I use Pihole as my ad-blocker I was looking for something that would run the Pihole on the router itself instead of having to use another device just for ad-blocking (I was running Pihole in a VM). The router is on all the time so why not install Pihole on it?
I ended up installing Debian 10 on the APU2 and it is just perfect and I love this setup:
Pretty devastated. Would appreciate your condolences
Are you sick of rebooting your janky wifi every two days because your router is garbage?
Turn your old computer into a router with Docker!
Code + howto: https://github.com/oofnikj/docker-openwrt
I've been running this for about a week on an Intel NUC with Ubuntu 16.04 and it works great, including Wi-Fi AP.
Hi guys and gals,
Although, I'm an hardware aficionado, my car's transmission decided it was going out of business this morning, so I've got quite an hefty, and reallllly unplanned (it's tax season time, rip), car repair bill to pay, so... Here's your luck at grabbing some of my hardware collection!
|Item||Note(s)||Brand New Price||Asking Price|
|Dan Case A4 SFX v4.0||Modded, not apparent, you can see the mod in one of my previous threads, I put the stock feet back||350 to 400$ with shipping and duty fees||200$|
|LTC K61||with carbon se-like keycaps, wireless 60% keyboard (Bluetooth), red switches (clones), with the updated (fixed) firmware||110$ with keycaps||70$|
|Thermaltake PSU extension cables||(1) Red and black kit, (1) black and white kit||80$||40$ each|
|Hardline fittings||Bitspower black and gold fittings, some got gifted to me by /u/sellersection31 and I bought the rest from /u/camSally .||Not entirely sure||100$ for the lot|
Hello again all, this is your friendly neighborhood dummy who was running a WRT54G for the last 16 years and wondering why he was stuck at <25 mb/s. If you missed it, that post is here. Just wanted to thank everyone who helped me out and pointed to my router being from the first W. Bush administration being the root of the issue. I have since upgraded to a Netgear Nighthawk X6S and I can now see into the future, walk on water, and know who shot JFK. I'm cranking along at >180mb/s download over wifi now and ~209 over ethernet cable.
Special thanks to u/larrylombardo , u/morkman100 , u/unreasonablesteve , u/scolias , u/lordadama , u/homenetworkguy , and u/mystikincarnate for taking the time to say more than just "lolz nice router".
|Corsair H60 AIO CPU cooler||45 (PENDING SALE: u/Junpaku)|
|Logitech G900 wireless mouse||70|
|Fractal Nano S itx Case (BNIB)||60|
|Noctua NF-A14 FLX||20|
|Noctua NF-A9x14 PWM (x2)||10 each|
|Corsair ML120 Pro||20|
|TP Link AC1750 C7||30|
|128gb SSD - Macbook Pro/Air 2013-2015||30|
|UpHere! GPU stand||10|
|VESA laptop mount||10|
|Primecables Laptop Stand||10|
|Primecables Laptop VESA mount||10|
My internet connection is blazing fast (180 MB/s down or more) when my PC is plugged directly into my cable modem. When I plug the computer into my wireless router first, and then plug the wireless router into the computer, the download speed on my computer is a measly 23 MB/s. Clearly something is up with my router and I hope someone can help me troubleshoot.
Dell Alienware desktop running Windows 10 latest patches
Processor-Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-7400 CPU @ 3.00GHz, 3000 Mhz, 4 Core(s), 4 Logical Processor(s)
Wireless Router Specs:
Linksys Wireless-G 2.4 GHz with 4 port switch
Driver is latest
Motorola DocSis 3.1
Internet Provider: Comcast
Troubleshooting so far:
Computer plugged direct to modem: blazing fast
Computer plugged to router and router to modem: slow
Variations of computer-->router-->modem attempted, all slow:
All ports plugged in with
Would like to know if this is a WiFi signal issue, as well If anyone else experiences screen freezing and what they have done to help stop from happening.
Hey all, I'm hoping to use a Nuc with a single nic as a router and I want to virtualize. The plan would be to run Proxmox as the host and pfSense as a guest along with other guests along side it. Is this router-on-a-stick-in-a-VM configuration possible? Could the system be configured so that the Proxmox host and the other guest instances are not exposed to WAN? Will I need a “managed“ switch to do this? Thanks in advance.
I have 1 PC connected to a router from which I want to SSH a network 1 hop away. The router from that further network is connected to a switch (router on a stick) with 2 VLANs. I can't ping any VLAN interface from the distant PC, not even the native VLAN (1).
Is there even a way to do it? Thanks!
Sorry if I'm late to the party, and everyone already knows this. I just wanted to drop a quick note here to say I've had no troubles with Eero's HomeKit router feature. I enabled it about 12 hours ago, added each of my two Eero nodes to a room, and was done. Despite an article going around about re-adding all wifi accessories, I've had to do nothing. All my time-based automations have worked today, including both wifi and bluetooth accessories, and things respond to commands and location triggers as they should. Basically, it was quick and painless, and has caused no problems with my HomeKit setup so far. I'll undoubtedly experience a massive crash tomorrow and have to build my setup from scratch, now that I've said everything works perfectly. :)
So I just got a message this morning in chrome saying I was at 1200 gb of my 1024 limit, which I thought was crazy because the MAX I reached in December even with a few extra people in the house was 920GB.
I already used my free courtesy months back in July and August of 2019 when I was running an ARK server, I am no longer doing that, so there should be NO WAY that I could be even close to my data cap.
My nighthawk router has data usage monitoring turned on and it is telling me I have only used about 600GB this month.
I tried calling Comcast and the lady straight up told me that they cannot see what is using so much data as it is my personal router and modem, does anyone have any ideas on what I could do? I have a feeling Comcast is fleecing me.
I am using a openvpn client and server, I can not "force all client-generated traffic through the tunnel" or set my dns to my router ip without it failing. If I set dns as cloudfare I can connect to my Local network and ssh, but my vpn client does not forward through the server I am connected to ?
Pf WAN 192.168.1.100/24 Pf LAN 192.168.10.1/24 Pf server Tunnel Network 192.168.70.0/24 Remote user auth Disabled tls Allowed inter client communication
Please bare with me on the length of this post.
So I have an ISP router (RT1) connected to the internet and running wi-fi around the house and the 192.168.1.xxx subnet.
I have bought Asus router (RT2) (Blue Cave AC2600, mainly because of the price, design etc.). One or main reasons was to allow me to set up VPN into my home network because I run IP cameras around the house and I do not let their traffic out of the home network.
Asus router however runs on 192.168.2.xxx. I can get into the router through VPN from the outside, but since the cameras have been in place before the Asus router, they have a 192.168.1.xxx address therefore I cannot see them through the VPN.
I have DHCP turned off on RT2 and I have tried connecting RT1 to RT2 using LAN to LAN ports rather than LAN to WAN ports. I have managed to put RT2 on 192.168.1.xxx network and everything is working except internet->RT2 connection, I think RT2->internet worked.
what am I doing wrong?
Is it better/easier to ju... keep reading on reddit ➡
In 2018 I bought the R9000 mostly for plex and 5Ghz along with the EX8000 extender. All worked swimmingly until I upgraded firmware early in 2019. The upgrade deprecated the Genie app and parental control forcing users to pay for Disney Plus parental controls. I rolled back firmware for parental controls, the app no longer works so I have to sit down at a PC and have connectivity problems ever since e.g., the wifi connections always say Limited and speedtests are slow 2 mbps. I have to hard restart and the speeds are back still shows limited. My family complains about the wifi all the time.
QOS is off not sure what else to check.
To resolve connectivity and app issues I am considering :
Upgrading to a better router and looking for suggestions.
Flashing DD-WRT but am not sure that will resolve the connectivity and app issues.
Any feedback would be greatly appreciated! Thank you.
I can't take this piece of shit thing anymore. There's no proper way to put it into bridge mode, besides basically manually disabling everything. It fucks up simple networking tasks because it does weird things that the router we actually use for Wi-Fi signal should handle anyway. It's an AT&T supplied nvg589. Apparently it has some special hardware/software that let's it talk to the ONT because I can't connect my other router directly to that, and every support tech basically said the same thing. I was wondering if anyone has had a similar issue. I just want a simple dumb box without enough brains in it to run anything that could fuck it up. I just want something that does whatever weird authentication is needed and then lets me use my own router for everything else.
PS: God I fucking hate Telco companies and their stupid monopoly. Even if you get good speeds like we do you get shit customer support. I can't wait for G Fiber to finish expanding, they're supposed to be really go... keep reading on reddit ➡
So i could use several subreddits for this question but i believe many of you have similar setup so ill try asking here.
What i mean with "user-friendly" is basically a gui, something like asus, netgear, tplink etc.
Something similar to my current router asus rt-ac86u But competent/supported for wireguard at gigabit speeds
Raspberry pi 4 i believe is almost capable but im not savvy enough to make that work i believe, unless you guys can point me to a guide of some sorts.
I apologize if this is the wrong sub and thank you in advance for help
Wondering if its worth the investment of a 200-300 router rather than issued the standard issue router. Current SaskTel Pace-branded router is in the furnace room in the basement of a 2 bedroom house that send out a 2.4GHz and 5GHz signal. I also have an old d-link on the second floor that acts as an access point for the 2.4Ghz signal.
For those that upgraded, was the speed difference noticable? Was the range better? Wondering if I could get rid of my router on the 2nd floor.
My home network is twelve years old and the nighborhood is getting crowded. Should I hold off one more year for Wifi6 to certify, or take the plunge now and get the best Wifi5 solution money can buy?
I got a new router. It's this one:
It has dual band wifi and gigabit ethernet ports.
Here are my iperf3 results:
Ethernet to ethernet: 889 Megabit/sec
Ethernet (server) to wifi (client, 5 GHz, 1-2 ft distance): 210 Megabit/sec
wifi to wifi (5 GHz, server device about 12 ft away, client device about 2 ft away): 160 Megabit/sec
It specifically states that the bandwidth for 5 GHz wifi is 867 Megabit/sec. Why am I still getting such low numbers? I don't have a wall between the router and the devices. Firmware is up to date. All devices are capable of 802.11ac wifi. I don't get what the problem is. Please suggest something, thanks.