Hi I’m about to fit my taps to my wall in my bathroom, the wall has been plasterboarded and tanked prior to tiling. I’m looking to fit the wall mounting plates to the tiles, but it doesn’t come with any screws or instructions for fixing to plasterboard. What screws/ fixings would I use for this? Thanks
Here is a photo of my situation.
Many recommend repair with jointing tape and compound, however if the crack is movement related won’t it just crack again over time?
I know caulking would have more tolerance for movement, but it would have a poor finish.
How would you approach this?
Advice is appreciated.
Edit: Photo of whole wall.
I tore out my kitchen bulkhead, and there's this black mesh running all along the perimeter of where the bulkhead was. I am trying to get rid of it so the new drywall we're hanging will be flush with the old plasterboard, but I cant remove the mesh as it appears to run through the old plaster.
Any tips on how I can remove this, or is it even necessary to? I tried to upload pics but this subreddit does not allow for that. Thanks in advance!
We are (sort of) remodeling our bathroom. Original plan was to keep the tile that surrounds all the walls and to reglaze them, as they're in pretty good shape. However, I just took off the shower door tracks, and there must have been too much stress on the side track as the plasterboard behind 2 tiles caved in and made a hole. I checked above, below, and to the sides of this hole and all the other plasterboard seems to be in good shape with no water damage. Thinking it was probably because they didnt drill it into the stud, but rather just the plasterboard.
Is there any way to repair just a small portion of this with drywall so we don't have to tear down a whole wall full of tiles?
I've got a shelf bracket, 900mm long, and it's got 6 screws per bracket running the length. Would you trust around 30kg of weight spread across the range of these brackets? My brain is saying yes, but it's 30kg of electronic equipment, so I'd really like to hear from an expert
Edit: hey thanks for the answers, but I found the technical data sheep. For anyone who looks for this in the future, it’s as follows:
Specified load: 16kg per plug in plasterboard Design load: 8kg per plug in plasterboard
So, in my case, my 12 total rawlplugs would give me a rating of roughly 200kg and 100kg respectively
Now I am sure this topic has been done to death, but i'm looking for some advice on what fixings I should use in securing a cabinet to modern walls.
I enjoy shooting clays but my grandfather wants to pass his old guns down to me since he can't go shooting anymore, and i'd rather they sit in my house than go to some secondhand shop or scrapbin.
Any advice would be most welcome, thanks.
Last Thursday I have bought 5 plasterboards in my local Wickes store. When moving them from a van we've noticed they are a bit wobbly, but whatever. Next day when we tried to cut them we found out that they are faulty. The paper was not "glued" to the plaster and was coming of. So I went to the same store on Saturday to return them as a faulty product. And here all begins. I've been told by store manager that this is my fault they are like that. I've tried to explain to him the problem, but the only response was that this is our fault and we didn't stored them properly (Note that this was less than 2 days after purchase and plasterboards were dry). At the same time my friend went to see if plasterboards they have on stock have same faulty and yes, they do. We went there with the guy to show him that plasterboards they are selling still have the same fault, but he didn't listen, changing his response that this is our fault and if there was something wrong with plasterboards I have bough... keep reading on reddit ➡
Hi anyone, I am in the middle of attempting to put up a fairly heavy solid wood-framed mirror in my rented modern-build apartment (4 years old). The wall is an external facing wall and the inside is plasterboard. I have some 50kg load plaster board fittings where you drill a hole right through the plasterboard and the fitting has anchors that are manually released to stop it coming back out. So I drilled the required 13mm diamter hole ... right through the plasterboard and I noticed it was quite deep, about 30mm (the fittings are for 12.5mm plasterboard). To my horror I noticed there was like a rubber membrane at the back of the plasterboard that I have also drilled through! Is this some sort of weathproofing that I have damaged? Should I refill the hole with some sort of waterproof polyfiller? I am so worried I have caused a potential leakage! Are those normal screw style plasterboard fittings a better usecase here as they do not need to have a hole go right through the plasterboard?
I’m fitting insulated plasterboard (25mm on 12.5mm pboard) to the walls of the living. Will be attached to block wall with hammer in fixings. Fitting vertical radiators. Anyone got any tips to stop the rad brackets crushing the plasterboard as I tighten them up? In the past I have made space collars from cuttings of copper pipe with varying results. Wondering is there a better way of doing it?
I am looking for some assistance and advice with mounting my TV onto a pasteboard wall as I am having some trouble working out if my wall is a stud wall or a dot and dab wall. The wall itself splits the front room and the hall way so there is not brick within the wall at all, I'd say it's around 5 inches think looking at it and for the most part is hollow. I expected that this would be a stud wall, however when I knock on the wall I am finding solid points in random locations, with no sign on any studs vertically or horizontally, it seems as if the solid points are just randomly placed within the wall. From what I've see online the dot and dab technique is only really used on external walls, is it possible I have a dot and dot wall internally or if not, does anybody have any idea what I could be working with here? I am reluctant to just cut into the plasterboard but I need to ensure I buy the correct fixings to mount the TV onto the wall. The house is around 18 months old so a fai... keep reading on reddit ➡
My neighbors called the cops on me a week ago for drumming, since then I've been trying to find ways to reduce the sound that leaks out of the room. Total soundproofing (building a room within a room) is not an option, but aiming to reduce the sound is more realistic.
With that said, I purchased quite a bit of acoustic foam and padding to seal the areas where the sound leaks out the most, one of those being a large 60x45 window (rough estimate).
I purchased an 8' x 4' plaster board that is said to help reduce sound from Menards, and plan on applying the foam to each side, pretty thick. My question is what is the best way to mount this? Someone mentioned I could lean this against the wall, but that wouldn't really fully seal the window. Is there anything I can purchase that the board can hang as closely as possible to the wall and window but can be removed when not needed? Or maybe sound kind of adhesive that I can apply to the board and window trim and I can just hang the board when... keep reading on reddit ➡
I bought this house last year and every room needs more work than expected.
In this room I drilled in a new curtain bracket holder, a few weeks later I noticed it was sagging. Not only that but it looked like what ever I had drilled into was pulling behind the plasterboard/wall.
I removed the bracket, and pulled that area out, and found behind there was just a cavity and some small wooden blocks. The wooden blocks is what I had drilled into, and they were pulling (from behind) against the plasterboard. They were just free standing/floating in the cavity.
First video before i pulled out damaged plasterboard:
Image of what was directly behind very thin plasterboard:
Video of how big those pieces were, and how they were not attached to anything:
I believe the metal, with the holes, is window li... keep reading on reddit ➡
My home was built in the 50’s and I think all the walls are plasterboard. I had to cut a hole to run some wire and it just all crumbles to sand. Would I be able to repair the hole the same way I would for drywall ?
Hi all. Apologies, I'm sure this has be raised more than once.
I'm moving into a new flat and noticed that the drywall/plasterboard paint is very streaky and thick. I'd love to be able to sand it back down for repainting but can't decide which route to go.
There looks like multiple coats of paint that need removing, so dust is maybe an issue. That had me thinking of using a powered orbital with vacuum-attachment instead of a regular hand sander/telescopic pole.
Budget is an issue, so I guess my question is, are the smaller hand-held orbital sanders a bad idea for this kind of situation? Would there be issues with circular burr marks across the paint etc
Any help would be awesome,
Edit: This is a secure long-term tenancy. I wouldn't bother otherwise.
Edit 2: I'll be sending away for a few lead test kits first per your recommendations. If I get the all-clear then I've decided to opt for just a light sand/prep instead. Thanks all.
Hi all. Sorry if the title is a bit scrambled, but it seems the best way to word it.
Basically I have a brick fireplace in my living room, and the television currently sits on the mantle. I want to mount the television to the wall.
Currently, the wall is drywall (I think, but it could be plasterboard) and behind it is brick. There are studs in the wall but they are very far apart, too far apart for the mount to fit correctly, so my options are to leave it standing on the mantle, or mount it into the brick.
My issue is, I've never done that before and don't want to mess up my walls more than I have to.
Does anybody have any experience with this? I can attach photos if it would help.
I've a pretty ugly wall to make good:
There's been some serious water damage and as part of a deal with the landlord I've agreed to make it good...
There's a layer of thick vinyl like wall paper, on top of plaster on top of the main wall.
At first I thought filling the areas were going to be the best idea but as the "paper" seems to be coming away I might have to strip all/most of that off.
I've had one suggestion from a friend to plasterboard the whole lot. While reading here on Reddit that you might only plasterboard patches. I don't see that much harm in doing the whole lot but I'm conscious I'm no expert and I should get some advice...
So can anyone comment on how I could make this look presentable?
The wall is pretty solid so if I needed to hang anything off it after, then the existing wall would be good for that for the most part.
Hi diy, me and some friends built a stud wall with plasterboard panels (drywall in US?). We used some "tapeless" jointing compound between the tapered edges. Unfortunately we slathered it on a bit too thick and rough and it looks pretty bad. I'm trying to sand it down but its taking a lot of time and effort. Any suggestions on how to fix this? Is it going to be better to try and go over it again with a third layer to at least smooth the edges and live with a bulge in the wall?
Edit: thanks for the advice everyone. I'll try some coarse sanding screens for now and if that doesn't work I guess I'll go get an orbital sander.
Am coming to the end of gibbing up my small place in Porirua and have got the usual offcuts of board, standard and aqualine. I heard Auckland has greengorrilla doing board recycling and was wondering whether anyone accepts or does similar in the wellington region?
We’re remodelling the bathroom and I’ve taken the plasterboard off the walls for retiling. The plasterboard has come off okay but the adhesive behind it (unsurprisingly) is stubborn as hell.
I live in a flat and I’ve spoken to my neighbours telling them there might be some noise - but working this morning I’ve had someone shout “shut up!” from one of the flats below (this was about 11am).
I admit it’s pretty damn loud and I’d be a bit frustrated we’re the situation the other way around. Is there a way of being quieter? Here is a picture of the stuck on adhesive and the hammer and chisel I’m using.
Trying to hang 50” TV wall mount on plaster board wall. Cannot pin point a stud for the life of me.
We bought a Victorian semi and have been restoring it for a few months.
It has a single brick party wall which makes it seem like the neighbours are in our room.
Although they are nice people, they have a young child who we can hear screaming and can also hear their voices pretty clearly.
Downstairs I’ve done the decoupled wall solution with CLS, 2x plasterboard and Rockwool and this has done really well.
Upstairs we were stuck for time and took the plasterers advice of dot and dabbing Soundbloc acoustic plasterboard to the party wall in the bedrooms. However, we can still really hear them upstairs almost word for word.
Is it possible that this plasterboard has made things worse? The air gap caused by the plasterboard adhesive has nothing to block the sound that could be bouncing around?
I think we may have to do a more robust solution upstairs and take off the plasterboard to replace by a stud solution.
When plasterboarding an external corner, does it matter if the two plasterboard pieces are not pushed right up against each other? I have cut a couple pieces of realised there is a bit of a gap (there are not butted completely up against each other) However my metal angle bead will still fit and can be stuck down to both pieces.
Is there any disadvantage to having this small external corner gap between the two pieces?
My bathroom walls are plasterboard, painted orange. I want to paint over the orange with a light grey. I have a load of leftover wood primer that I can use up, but my question is, can I use wood primer to tone down the orange paint on plaster walls, or is is strictly 'wood only'? Thanks in advance!
Fairly handy in general but I’ve never mounted shelves on a plasterboard wall. The shelves I’ve picked out are floating shelves, reclaimed pine from scaffolding boards.
What I’m not sure about (and can’t get a nice clear answer from google) is what additional steps or support for the shelves is required - a lot of the vendors I have seen say “not suitable for plasterboard” etc.
I’m assuming the reason is heavier shelves or heavily loaded shelves are more likely to fail.
Any advice would be appreciated.
I am planning to wall mount my TV and was looking for a stud in an internal wall. Hit something metal like behind my plasterboard (in picture). It looks like a metal ring and there is atleast one more on the same vertical line a few inches above. Although there is none a couple of cm above(smaller hole in the picture). Any idea what it is? There is nothing solid behind this ring. I cant seem to find a stud either. This is a new build ground floor apartment in the UK and is only a few months old. This is in an internal wall between a bedroom and the living room.
We live in a new build home so most walls are plasterboard. I've bought a set of Flexson wall mounts for my sonos ones. The instructions state that they should not be mounted on drywall but doesn't say why. Obviously not to use the basic fixings provided but surely ok with the usual drywall fixings I use for everything else?
Or is it for concerns of vibration or something with the sound?
Any advice appreciated, anyone used them on drywall and are happy? Maybe I should of gone with stands :D
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