Hey there! First time homeowner here and I bought a house that was built in 1914 with the intentions of fixing it up and selling it again. I was in the middle of taking down some old beautiful wood trim for I wanted to sand and refinish, well I noticed that my plaster underneath the trim was falling apart and cracking and I’m not sure I can continue on with the project without wrecking my walls. Some of the walls in the house are no longer straight and some are cracked. Would replacing this material add value to my home? I tried googling it but a lot of websites said to just keep it, as it’s historical and valuable. there’s no intricate plaster designs anywhere. Just confused on whether it’s worth replacing or not.
UPDATE: Hanging the frame using toggle bolts (step by step) At the recommendation of two redditors (and some old home blogs) I purchased toggle bolts at the Home Depot to hang the mirror and they worked great! Definitely a high stakes game though, trying to hang a mirror level and drilling 1/2 holes in your walls, not much room for error. The mirror is a hair’s width crooked but it looks like I’m the only one who can see it so I’m not going to rehang (because it’s definitely not noticeable once the dresser is topped).
I purchased this mirror at Target and it included a hanging kit with this type of anchor. I previously used anchors like these with some Target floating shelves at our last house 1950’s on drywall and they worked so well; I would love to use them again...
But I’m finding conflicting information about whether or not I can use this in lath and plaster (the directions contain no info) but reviews/product info on similar products say you can while others say not to. What’s the general consensus here?
We live in a 1924 Tudor home in SLC. Thanks I’m advance for your help!
ETA: Here’s a link to an image of the actual included anchor and screw with measurement. Anchor is just over 1 1/2” long, almost 1 5/8”, screw is about 1 1/4” long.
Building is from 1932. We are going to get it tested but just curious if anyone has an idea.
We were mudding a hole in the wall behind a fridge and the mud knife caught some metal mesh in the old plaster and the back of the fridge. Pop goes our light circuit. Turns out, using a proximity tester, that the entire wall is energized. We thought it might be around a plug/switch that were right above/below each other, so we busted out the wall up and down to the ceiling and floor but there was no metal mesh there. We followed their wires all the way to the header and footer and no interference... Nothing else on the whole wall or behind the fridge, any ideas? Really lost. Can plaster carry current? Why would the whole wall be energized?
So I’m going to soundproof the ceiling in my flat with Genie clips, and acoustic plasterboard. Partly because the artex ceiling is gross, partly for soundproofing.
Soundstop told me to retain the lath and plaster because it’s messy, and has good acoustic mass. Then use genie clips and 50mm rockwool, then double layer of acoustic plasterboard.
Sound proofing store told me to get rid of it to backfill the space between the joists with insulation before doing a suspended ceiling off the joists.
Anyone done anything similar? Which would be better
I tried a few different sizes from the box store. b114r and larger. Nothing seems to work without major modification ( I pulled the screws out of the tabs, re-tapped them to fit longer screws and added 4" machine screws so can get behind the lath) Does anyone know of a box I can get that will work for me? re-tapping every single screw on every single tab is going to take me forever. I have about 40 of them to do. The inspector is insisting on plastic because everything we pulled in is romex. No mc. Some of the larger boxes had ears big enough to work but they were way too deep, penetrating out of the other side of the wall. I really think I need something like the 114r but with way longer screws on the tabs although I don't think this exists. I never imagined after pulling romex through a 120 year old house that finding a box would be the hardest part of the job.
I’ve got two of these holes in the same room, believe it or not.
How do I put Downlighting in a lath and plaster FLAT ceiling? I can’t access from above as it’s a bathroom extension on the second floor with a tiled flat roof.
I really don’t want to rip down the lath and plaster ceiling if possible but can’t see a way to chase in the electrics and a strong structure to hold the led sockets?
We removed the ceiling fan from our dining room and are attempting to install a basic chandelier. As we are installing the bracket, the edges of the hole are beginning to crumble and in some spots the internal plaster is beginning to crumble. We're afraid to proceed because with the crumbling the hole is becoming too large for the bracket. The bracket is currently screwed in but is loose because we can't get the screws to go in any further. What can we do?
I need to remove a ceiling in my kitchen and it is made of what I believe to be rock lath. It is basically drywall (but much stronger), with a layer of what appears to be concrete, and then covered with a finish coat of plaster. Any ideas on how I would cut this down in sections?
Our house is a 2-story house with a basement and a finished attic built in the 30s. We're renovating the kitchen and dining room (half of the 1st floor) which means we're removing the lath and plaster walls, re-framing, insulating with closed cell spray foam and then drywall.
Given that the remainder of the house is uninsulated block/brick with lath and plaster walls, does it make sense to to get the kitchen and dining room walls insulation as high as we can with closed cell foam in the framing bays? Or just apply some insulation given that the rest of the house is not insulated?
I've heard that lath and plaster is a better at insulation than bare drywall but haven't seen an estimated R-value for that type of wall by itself.
I have a few holes in in my walls which I believe to be lath and plaster but correct me if I'm wrong. They came when I tried to hang a painting on the wall, the plaster was really brittle and it took the third time to get the nail to hold. I've since removed the painting and now need to patch the damage to the walls. I'm not all that familiar with patching plaster walls and am wondering if this is a repair I can do. The plaster has a bit of a sandy texture like there are large grains within it. Is it possible for me to patch this wall and match the texture, further is it possible to match the color? The walls aren't painted but I don't know if the color will still be impossible to match without redoing the entire surface.
What exactly would this kind of repair entail and is it something I can do myself or do I need to call a professional? Thanks.
In process of a massive (it started small..) remodel.
Lath & plaster has been removed throughout the house. Almost ready to put it all back together.
Searched through a bunch of posts and on the interwebs. Looking for help:
I just bought a (100+year old) home with lath and plaster walls. The walls are in reasonable condition, but there are many cracks which have been poorly patched over the years. I've done drywall repair plenty of times before and am comfortable scraping out, filling, taping etc. to make on drywall. Question is - can I use regular drywall jointing compound or quickset on plaster? Are there special types for this application or specific brands/types to avoid?
Also, this Plaster Magic product is recommended in a few places (eg. this old house) for re-attaching the plaster where keys are broken. Is it as good as advertised? Much more expensive than using the older style plaster washers, happy to pay if it's really worth it.
We are gut renovating our 1958 kitchen. The whole house is lath and plaster. The kitchen walls are basically this plasterboard and double-thick brick walls. From what I read, plasterboard is insulating. This plasterboard is quite old and there’s some chunks missing from the demo. Should we take it all down, frame (there’s no studs now), insulate and put up drywall? We will be hanging some cabinets and shelves. Or should we fill these holes with more plaster? First-time gut reno of an old house and have no idea what to do with this kind of construction.
Last week, my plumber forgot to check the drain valve on an unvented hot water cylinder (loft) and that evening, it leaked a considerable amount of water into the room below.
The ceiling is a lath and plaster one, possibly with some plaster/wall board on top. After the leak, the ceiling had bulged considerably, but now, 1.5w after, it has shrunk back some, but not completely. Sticking a level on it shows a 1-2cm bulge.
My question, how concerned should I be? And should this be covered by the plumber's insurance?
My concern is that even though it feels solid, it's still a little cold/damp, and this would have weakened the plaster, and it may fall down in the future with vibrations/impact long after the plumber has sailed off into the sunset.
Thanks for any and all insight.
I am getting ready to embark on remodeling my (only!) bathroom in my 1940 house (not a century home, I know, but definitely built like one!)
I had the foresight to replace all of the plumbing and electrical when we moved in so everything behind the walls is up to date and ready for another 80+ years but the bathroom is sorely due for some TLC as the tiling is starting to fail.
My hitch: the tile is set directly on plaster and wood lath. No mud bed (thats the tile floor!), no metal lath, not drywall. Old school plaster, just like the rest of the house. images
What do I do with this? I have managed to preserve the plaster everywhere else in the house, even after the replumb and rewire and what I HAVE had to remove for repairs has been a huge dirty, heavy pain in the ass.
Looking through the access panel I can tell that at least some of the plaster will need to be cut out and replaced with drywall since it’s crumbling/failing, but has anyone successfully removed ceramic tiles without completely destroying the integrity of the plaster behind? How did you do it?
Also how do I butt out the new drywall to be flush with where the plaster sits? Shims? Sistering?
My house was built in 1916 (I think) and the upstairs dividing wall that is against the stairs is lath and plaster with gross yellow wallpaper over it from the ‘70s. The plaster along the bottom of the wall has been crumbling for a couple of years, and it’s just been getting worse. I’m a bit worried about the structural integrity of the wall. Is there any way to stop the crumbling? I haven’t found much online other than straight up replacing it with drywall, which isn’t in the budget at this moment (unfortunately)