We just bought a house a month ago and had the entire HVAC system replaced down to the ductwork about two weeks ago. This past week we had the entire roof and gutters replaced. I noticed after they left on the second day of roof replacement that the a/c wasn’t kicking on. After some digging, I discovered seven nails had ended up in the basin of the a/c condenser unit outside.
We called the company who installed the HVAC and they came out and found a massive tear in the coils that was leaking fluid, scratches across the fan and dents in the coils and basically the nails punctured dozens of micro holes, and it was leaking everywhere. They can’t fix it but have to replace the whole thing.
They said the roofing company needs to pay to replace the outdoor units and the lines. I let our roofing company know, and they are coming out to look at it themselves today. I’m assuming they are liable, but I just wanted to hear thoughts.
I’m kicking myself for not just turning the whole thing off while they were working. It didn’t occur to me until after the fact—brand new homeowner rookie mistake. So I’m wondering if it was our fault.
Edit: apparently there are such a thing as micro tubes in the a/c unit, I don’t know if those were damaged. I used micro to describe what he referred to as potentially many tiny holes in the coils that are leaking whatever fluid is running through them.
They just did an announcement ZUM-2
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So there seems to be this common belief that dynamics somehow are better in a budget setup and I can't quite understand why. The lower sensitivity of the condenser microphones means you need much less gain, which means that your budget Focusrite (or whatever) has to do less work and introduce less noise into the SNR.
Assuming both microphones have the same polar pattern, what exactly would make dynamics any better at all? Or do people just fear cheap condensers, with I guess zero experience in using them?
Hey! I'm looking to buy a pair of small diaphragm (pencil) condenser microphones. I will be using them mainly on acoustic guitar, upright piano and drum overheads. And occasionally on violin and trumpet. Do you have any recommendations?
BTW, I've looked into the Lewitt 040 matched pair, but I'm a bit concerned about the hyped high end and really present brilliance (and the small size to be perfectly honest). And I'm thinking about the rode NT5's. All tips are welcome!
I can't find it now, but I thinkI saw a post on here awhile ago where someone had a Dyna with a glass midsection and it had a a twisted inner condenser pole that I haven't seen before What are these called and where can I get them?
So I have an outlet vapor tempreture of 40 C is it possible to cool this vapor to -80 using only condensation?
If not what is the usuall outlet tempreture the condenser.
Basically like the title says, I noticed it stopped working so I reset the breaker, it came on for about 20 seconds then went off again. I reset a second time and their was a pop and it started spraying coolant for about 30 seconds. Has anyone ever heard of this happening before? Or know the cause? The bigger thing I got going on is my wife can’t break her fever it’s 80 degrees in the house and I have three kids under 6 who all are sick also. Is this something I can have an HVAC guy fix from outside, I ain’t lying and infecting some poor bastard. Not sure what else to do. Any help would be great.
I got an SM57 since I heard it was the "standard" for recording electric guitar amps. Now I'm learning that it's a very low gain mic and it doesn't seem to work well with recording acoustic guitar.
The signal is extremely quiet and I need to have it way too close to myself when playing acoustic to get something audible. I'm wondering if a condenser mic would be better suited for home recording for both electric and acoustic. I can get an AKG P420 for $150 USD on sale, but the sale ends in a few days.
I have a 2 ton Carrier 24AHA4 side discharge unit that is connected to a Carrier Infinity 59TN6, they were both installed last September. I'm not happy with the level of cooling, takes more than 2 hours to drop the temp 2C, or the sound. It puts off quite a bit of low frequency noise that seems to resonate with our house so that there is a noticeable low freq rumble inside. It's mounted on a bracket bolted to the concrete foundation wall.
I'm thinking of replacing it with a 2.5 ton unit but want to find something very quiet. I'm hoping to hear peoples personal experiences with the sounds of the units and not just the db specs. The 24AHA4 I have is rated at 66 db which should be quiet but it's not. Anyone seen any units that were particularly quiet?
Right now I'm thinking about the Lennox XC13 or Carrier 19VS or Performance 13 or Daikin DX13SA. It also needs to be a compact unit, 28 inches or less, as there is not a lot of space on that side of the house. I'm fine with paying a more for quality.
I think this is a bug and I don't know where to report it so I'll just mention it here. When I dive my submarine underwater, my condenser which uses sea water for cooling, begins to heat up very quickly. It usually sits between 20 and 30 but when I dive, it'll go up to 80 and above.
Hi,
Biochemist here with a chemical engineering problem, so any resource recommendation or insight will be much appreciated.
I am trying to figure out exact cooling requirements of an evaporation process, where 50% ethanol solution is evaporated in a single stage falling film evaporator at 55°C under a vacuum.
The capacity of the equipment is 1000 L/h of recovered condensated ethanol which will be recycled back to the process. Only requirement for the condensated ethanol is that it is condensed, because the subsequent process needs heated ethanol.
The equipment will be fitted with a plate heat exchanger to condense the ethanol vapor, but right now I'm not sure how much energy or cooling liquid the system will need to be able to condensate 1000 L of 55°C ethanol vapor back to liquid ethanol.
Any idea how to start solving this problem?
Until now, I've been recording in my room with a pop filter, foam cover, and Fifine USB Mic using my laptops soundcard. I was looking to get an audio interface and some condenser mic used or new. Any suggestions?
The longer many of us play, the more we realise elixir is by far the most difficult resource to accumulate.
While also for many of us, we are getting overloaded with power ups (especially Fire, Summon & Heal) potions. Many also have more Raid Tickets than Endless keys. Stuff that is pretty much worthless.
It would be great if the game introduced a new feature, a bit like forge but in reverse - a way to convert items back to elixir.
Have similar restrictions such as time to convert and 2 free slots - with option to pay gems for more.
Payouts only need to be modest (so you can’t forge, then condense and make high elixir profits)
Such as
Basic 4 potions - 15 mins for 50 elixir each
X2 Freeze, Gold, Armageddon - 30 mins for 200 elixir each
Meteor - 60 mins for 400 elixir
This would give us a way to make a little extra elixir and manage our resources better. Add achievements too for conversing “x” items.
While trying to get condenser turbines working in the Space Exploration mod, this thread came up at the top of the search results:
https://www.reddit.com/r/factorio/comments/g3dn1c/cant_figure_out_condenser_turbines_space/
Nobody in that thread hit on the correct explanation and it's too late to post to it, so I'm creating this thread in hopes the search engines will index this for future reference.
The issues with this building arise from the wonky way it's implemented: internally, it consists of two buildings glued together.
The first internal building is a 5x3 condenser. It has one steam input and two outputs, one for water and one for steam. This building outputs 99 units of water and 75 units of steam for each 100 units of steam it pulls in.
The second internal building is a 3x1 steam turbine, located in middle of the condenser. It has two bidirectional input/outputs for steam, both of which are connected to the condenser's steam output. It consumes the steam to produce electricity, but only when the grid's solar generation capacity is less than the overall demand.
The net result of this for the external 5x3 building you see in the GUI: it has one steam input and one water output, with a bunch of extraneous symbols and arrows in the middle you can safely ignore. Its steam input is connected to the condenser's steam input, and its water output is connected to the condenser's water output.
--steam--> condenser turbine ( --steam--> condenser [ --steam--> <--> turbine <--> <--steam-- ] --water--> ) --water-->
You may be worried that the building has a red operating status due to "output full", and find that it's clogged with steam. This is fine. The internal condenser building is trying to output steam, but is unable to since the internal turbine building is already full. This steam will be consumed when demand picks up. You cannot, and do not need to, remove the steam from the condenser turbine.
Edit: I should add that the listed 10 MW output is for 999 °C steam. Since it will refuse to generate power from 5000 °C steam and the next best option in Space Exploration is 500 °C, you're only going to get 5 MW out of the thing unless you get creative with fluid mixing.
I'm looking for something like this:
https://imgur.com/a/zlysMYs
2002 Pontiac grand am 3.4
If you have an AC condenser and a tranny cooler, where did you install your cooler? The instructions say something about a foam pad, but:
a - why the fuck didn't it come with any
b - what kind of foam pad and where do I get it?
c - wouldn't that make the AC compressor work harder? Seems dumb.
So I'm going to embark on a bit of a rant, there is no real focus but it's been gnawing at me so I'd like to try and impart any knowledge that has accidently soaked into my brain.
I wanted to do a post about which stem and which tips work best for me, I have been experimenting like I'm trying to find the cure for cancer. And this is what I came up with as what I thought was my end game. Keep in mind I use all of these pieces through a dry bong and with an induction heater, so this is what works for me.
2019 ss tip on 2021 vong body. Hits hard and the leaky vong body compensates for the super tight draw of the 2019 tip.
2019 Ti tip on Little Finger wpa. I set it to half a bowl and I use this for quick hits.
2020 ss tip on bb9. By far my favourite accessory, the bb9 is probably the first thing I should have bought, it cools incredibly well and I haven't broken it. Yet. And after not using the 2020 for a while it blew my mind at how hard it hit and I know that lots of people hate it but I don't know why.
So I thought I had it down, each piece has its own benefits and uses so I can customise my experience, you know, the thing we all love about Dynavap. Until last night, in a moment of stoned clarity, I though, what if I removed the condenser from the vong and put the Ti tip on my 2019 body with no condenser, would that make a difference?
It sure fucking did.
And to quote the Mars Volta "Now I'm lost"
Back to the drawing board I guess.
