One thing that always comes up is which tools you absolutely need to get started and how to do it on a budget. I’ve been thinking about this lately and I thought it would be fun to create a bare bones list with examples of what I’d get if I had to buy everything again from scratch. With that in mind, I mostly focused on new tools with the idea that you may not have the time or energy to wait for u/oldtoolfool to make a post. Some of these tools I haven’t used myself, but they are the ones that tend to be well regarded in the community.
Any list like this could be controversial so if any of you have better ideas, please comment with your own list or suggestions for specific tools. I’m curious what you’d pick instead. I’ll try to update this post as needed.
Here’s the list:
|Jack Plane||~$60||Prewar Stanley #5. Hard to buy a quality new tool for less. If I had to buy new, I’d spend the money on a Veritas Low Angle Jack for its versatility, but I’d still eventually pick one of these up.|
|Extra Plane Blade||$14||An extra blade would make the #5 more versatile so you can switch easily between fine and course shavings. Ideally you would find a vintage one with a chipbreaker.|
|Hand saw||$30||Spear & Jackson 9500R, 22" Crosscut. This seems to be the cheapest sharpenable saw sold today and has a good review from Paul Sellers|
|Back Saw||$89||Veritas Carcass Saw, Crosscut. Best value back saw at a flexible size. Crosscut got better marks for versatility over the rip in a Fine Woodworking review (#248).|
|Chisels||$50||Narex Premium Imperial Sized Bench Chisels. Narex is well regarded and I prefer imperial sizes. $70 Stanley 750s would be a nice upgrade.|
So another addition of "Favorite tool of all time, for this week". Hopefully everyone knows the rules by now but if not, it is basically just what is your favorite tool at the moment that is helping on your current project or is just a joy to use right now! As always I will start-
Right now it is deeper reach(3.5") Bessy F clamps... which is weird bc I have championed cheap Harbor Freight clamps(mostly the aluminum bar clamps, but I have plenty of the squeeze and F clamps that I use all the time!) But I have been doing stuff that needs clamped down for a bit, then rotated and reclamped and the Besseys have been a joy to use! So much so that I grab an extra 1-2 almost everytime I run into HD. Not a flashy tool but one of the ones I use most often and has made me realize why guys champion the more expensive clamps!
So tell me what your favorite tool is now and why or what you're using it for! And as always, Hapoy Sunday and hope everyone gets a bit of shop time today!
My city has a small tool library that's mostly volunteer run. Membership is anywhere from $20-100 depending on how many tools you want to take out at a time (and frankly, how much you want to help the library).
I have lots of specialty tools that I bought, used once, and will never use again. Waste of money at pretty much any price (even harbor freight prices).
But - there are tools I don't have for the simple reason that I've never needed them.
So I was installing a hot water tank (Hybrid/heat pump heater - I highly recommend it after using it for a grand total of a few hours) - and realized that I needed a special crimper to clamp pex to barbed connectors (hose clamps "work" but they are not recommended for pex).
Not wanting to buy a $70 crimper tool, I checked the library, saw they have them, signed up and paid dues online, stopped by and picked one up (along with a hammer drill since I have to mount my TV antenna to the outside of the house on the chimney).
I had eight crimps to make, and I have 4 holes to drill. Renting these tools would have ran me more than the $20 I paid for library dues, and buying them would have been more expensive.
I was wondering what the standard protocol would be for a ship that arrives out of hyperspace into an Imperial-controlled system, so I could plot out the various checks that might be involved. For instance, would the authorities usually ignore a small passenger craft entirely, or would they have a basic challenge-and-response communication and a check for valid transponder code, possibly even including a fly-by and a close-range sensor scan? Also, how would the level of Imperial presence in the system impact that protocol? Basically, if you have some rebels flying a shuttle or a small freighter, what would they typically expect to encounter, and what would seem out of place?
Starting With Earth
I am not an experienced sailor or pilot, so I welcome anyone with experience in this area to help me fill in more accurate details. Also, I mostly based my research on the US and the UK, but I would be very interested to hear about how foreign ports handle this. Anyhow, for starters I researched the process that small foreign watercraft should follow when entering a US port.
Prior to arrival, the ship should have filed a "Notice of Arrival" or NOA so that the port would be expecting the ship's arrival. So if a ship arrives having not filed an NOA, or filing one right before arrival, would potentially arouse suspicion and increase the chances of the agency taking more interest in the ship. On Earth, this prior notice can be needed 4 days in advance or as little as 16 hours in advance, depending on the type of vessel and the port in question. In Star Wars, the HoloNet would allow that type of NOA to be filed normally, and is the kind of thing that the Imperials would expect. ("We were not expecting a shipment…" is a very Imperial bureaucrat thing to say.) Some countries call this an ANOA (for Advanced Notice of Arrival) and can be more strict than others on the details.
Upon arriving in territorial waters (or arriving in-system in Star Wars), the norm is to hoist the courtesy flag of the country you are visiting (along with quarantine flag where relevant.) So the Star Wars equivalent here is to make sure your transponder is on, and you reach out to Port Control ASAP instead of waiting on them to call you.
The relevant government agency in America is Customs and Border Protection (CBP), and if you sail a non-commercial small boat into a US port, you have to report immediately to this agency. This can be handled by phone, and they also have an app, or you c... keep reading on reddit ➡
I bought a 1987 454 up in PA for $250 back in March. Thing had been sitting since 1991 and I'm no mechanic so it took me (my bike mechanic) all summer to finally get her running. This fall I rode it every day while I was at school absolutely loved it. I've been feelin crafty over my winter break so I've been fixin a ton of the problems I had this fall. Doing all these repairs to it gives me an itch to turn her into a full on project bike so since this forum has been an absolute blessing for a lot of what I wanted to know and a huge inspiration for ideas I thought I'd post about in in here.
Right now I have a radiator leak and I can't find any attractive looking offers on ebay or anywhere else so I'm planning on finding the leaks by pluggin all the holes and stickin it under water and then fixing them with JB weld. In the near furture I'd like to do some cosmetic/preventative maintenence by doin pads and rotors, replacing all the hoses and clamps, getting new clutch and brake levers (currently all rusted up) and maybe doing a clutch rebuild. Eventually I'd like to rewire the entire bike and repaint the frame and any other parts that look like they need repainting, just with some black paint.
A ton of my inspiration came from a couple builds I found online of 454s with clip on bars, fender deletes, shock dust covers and nice lookin exhausts:
Don't know how ergonomic those bikes are with the clip ons and all but I just love the look and how clean the bikes are (mine's an old rust bucket currently).
I think I'd start with the exhaust since that's probably the "easiest" mod I want to do. Looking at EMGO slip on mufflers and wrapping the pipes to look real slick. I wanna jet the carbs once I get an aftermarket exhaust and some pod filters on there. I found a Mikuni VM30 kit sold by Speed Moto Co that comes pre-jetted with pod filters. I think I'll have to give Speed Moto a call and make sure they know what they're doin, but the kit doesn't seem like a bad deal especially since my carbs are all rusted up on the outside anyway and I'd either wanna repaint them or replace them if I kept em stock.
I'm thinkin about gettin' one of them tabletop sandblasting units from harbor freight to clean up some of the... keep reading on reddit ➡
Hi, I am trying to make a mount for a power strip on a desk out of either steel (low carbon/mild) or aluminum (6061). I will need to make a 45 degree and 90 degree bend similar to the image linked below. The plan is to screw it into the wall and attach the power strip to the diagonal segment. I am thinking of building it with 6" x 6" sheet metal, clamping it to a table and using the Harbor Freight bending tool linked below. I will use tin snips to cut it down to size and a drill for mounting holes before bending. I would like the sheet metal as thick as possible for rigidity when someone is plugging stuff into the power strip but I don't have access to a brake.
I'm doing this to achieve a clean minimalist look and don't want an empty seam between the wall and the table. Cables will be run through the wall.
OK...so, you've gotten bit by the lab gear bug. You find yourself idly shuffling through the "Test, Measurement and Inspection" listings on eBay, and looking at shelving units that won't collapse under several hundred pounds of STUFF. And you've ready the first three parts of this (very good idea) series, and just can't WAIT to dive in.
Well...hold up now. There's a few things you should have on hand before you take the plunge...especially with equipment that's pre-1970s and potentially powered-down for decades.
THING #1: MULTIMETERS. These are a MUST-HAVE. Not only do these have the obvious usages, such as checking output voltage levels, there's ALSO some that can examine line amperage draws via a typical clamp-on arrangement. And they're cheap...both of mine are Cen-Techs, got from Harbor Freight. But the one that I'd recommend, hands down, is https://www.harborfreight.com/electrical/electrician-s-tools/digital-clamp-meter-96308.html This has the current measurement clamp, which is pretty useful if you've got a ton of gear and you're wondering how much stress you're putting on your AC supply lines. And I don't want to hear ANY argument about the price: $15!
THING #2: A variac. What's a variac? It's a portmanteau word. But what the word MEANS explains it all: "Variable AC". So, variacs are devices you put between your AC supply and a piece of gear that's not seen action in decades. Since the most fail-able parts of AC powered gear are the power supply caps, and since these tend to experience degradation over years of disuse, by SLOWLY powering up an old device with a variac, you can actually correct some of those power cap issues by "reforming" the caps in this way. And that's not all...you can also use a variac to "starve" a device and cause it to act in weird, glitchy ways, sort of like how guitarists use devices like the Dead Bat with their effects pedals to wring new sounds out of those.
THING #3: Oscilloscope. You'll want one of these for numerous reasons. For starters, you can use them to check spectral purity of waveforms and find any issues with those circuits. If you have a properly-calibrated one, you can also use it for AC voltage measurements. But ONE use stands out...phase checking! For this, you'll need to find a 'scope that has dual-trace capability AND a setting for "X-Y" display. When you feed your stereo audio into the two inputs and select that mode, you get a Lissajous pattern which can be read easily to scope out phase problems...... keep reading on reddit ➡
Since I live in the middle of nowhere, part of my preparedness is about avoiding extra trips to town. Having these things on hand at home is a minor convenience when the store is available, but could make a huge difference if town was no longer accessible to me.
So, here are the things from the "dollar store stuff" box that I've been using lately.
Reusable dish washing gloves. I keep these around in case I decide to clean with harsher chemicals than usual, but they came in super handy when I was tanning some hides too.
Maximum strength nail polish remover. This is just acetone, and comes in handy for cleaning whiteboards, electrical components, automotive body areas you're about to paint, etc. Also gets sharpie off of glassware if you like writing directly on your storage containers.
Hydrogen peroxide. Gets blood stains out of stuff.
Cotton washcloths. These replace almost all uses of disposable paper products. When bulk isn't an issue, I find that a washcloth folded into thirds is the lowest-inconvenience menstrual product that I have available. No disposable crap to dispose of, no cup to hassle with cleaning and reinserting, no scrubbing and wringing to try to extract a bunch of blood from a multi-layer reusable pad. Just unfold the washcloth, soak it overnight in cold water with a splash of hydrogen peroxide, run it through the laundry, line dry it in the sun, and it's good as new. I keep colorful washcloths for hygiene and white washcloths to use instead of paper towels in the kitchen so it's easy to tell what belongs where, even though a hot wash and sunny line dry sanitizes everything anyway.
Clothespins. I've been line drying a lot of laundry and clothespins are essential to keep it from blowing off the line and falling on the ground. The dollar store ones do the job just fine.
Masking tape and pencil or waterproof marker. I can discern no difference other than price between the dollar store masking tape and the cheap kind from the hardware store. And masking tape is my favorite way to label food containers, storage bins, pretty much anything with a nonporous surface that needs a semi-permanent but removable label. In any situation where food is scarce, it's especially important to label what you've got so you can eat it in an order that gets it all consumed before it goes off. However, I find that the dollar store duct tape and electrical tape are notably worse than their counterparts from the hardwar
After doing research and trying out several machines I decided to make a post related to Hazzard Fraud aka Harbor Freight's Vulcan line of welders. At first glance they seem like an attractive deal... I mean the box even says "1 YEAR RISK FREE TRIAL" so it has to be legit right? If you're like me you don't purchase a warranty simply because you know the components in your rig are the cheapest, bottom of the barrel parts available... you want a budget rig that's going to pay for itself without having to drop another grand on consumables and bullshit to get you started. My point: Save yourself the heartache of reading the positive fake reviews on Hazzard Frauds website... Sadly the only videos of the machine you'll find are from inexperienced welders who lack common knowledge of DINSE connector sizes, etc and they give you horrible advice. So here I am trying to save you from a "sore dick deal".
In case you were looking at the Vulcan ProTIG 165 (currently $700).... Stop right there...
Consider the Everlast PowerARC 161STH (currently $450 - normally $569).
For a pre-tax savings of $250 (or your new shiny Argon tank) you'll get a TIG that's HF arc starts are smoother than the Miller Maxstar I use on the job, as well as a ton of bells and whistles... like: Pre & Post flow control, PWM or pulse function with adjustable frequency, a consumables starter kit (minus tungsten & foot pedal) complete with an Everlast 17 series TIG torch w/ remote trigger switch (25 DINSE connection), stinger, ground clamp, regulator, and a carrying case.
This is the machine I personally purchased, tried out and kept. I've upgraded my torch, made longer leads, upgraded to a Nova foot pedal and upgraded my hoses/regulator. Runs like a dream.
In case you were looking into the Vulcan ProTIG 205 (currently $1000)... STOP...
Consider the AHP AlphaTIG 201XD (currently $640 - normally $800). ^(*BEST VALUE FOR $$$*)
Once again saving you enough to guy a bottle for Argon and it, too is loaded with bells and whistles. The AlphaTIG 201XD is an AC/DC machine with PWM, all the accessories you would need to get running AND the best part is they added a Nova pedal to this kit so right out of the box you have a bitc... keep reading on reddit ➡
I got this nice meter saw from Harbor Freight but I need to cut smaller pieces of wood, a clamp on each side would help, but the meter saw only comes with one. I am not sure Hercules sells them individually, couldn’t find them. Any help would be appreciated, I am new to this
Hi all! My fiancé and I would like to share our 4 week long (July 4th delayed it, as well as trying to do as much as possible while also working from home) cabinet remodel journey.
Ever since we had the previous homeowner’s countertops replaced with the white/gray quartz countertops, my fiancé has been dying to redo the cabinets. Originally we wanted to do it soon after the wedding..but with that being delayed until next year bc of COVID, we had all the time in the world to do it.
The link has pictures as well as photo descriptions so that you can maybe use this guide to aid in your journey and learn from my mistakes. It’s way more detailed than this post, so I could avoid making you all scroll through the same info while looking at the pictures. My inspiration and information came from 2 separate post from other Reddit users in the past who have done it (/u/grampadeal & /u/painterboy, I can’t thank you both enough!), and their posts made me believe someone with 0 air tools, air compressor, or interior paint experience could accomplish professional results while savings a TON of money.
First we removed all the cabinets and removed a gazillion screws to take out the existing hardware (details on mistake made here can be found in Imgur album), and on to the garage they went for prep!
The original cabinets were stained (woodlovers..I know they were nice before, but I’m trying to get a head start on learning happy wife, happy life prior to my wedding, so I apologize in advance), so we used liquid sandpaper instead of sanding by hand. Once we coated with the liquid, and then let it sit after scrubbing in with 3M stripping pads.
We then primed with BIN primer, filled the existing hardware holes with wood filler, sanded the wood filler, and then sanded the first coat of primer with 220 grit sanding block. After vacuuming and wiping down with tack cloth, I then drilled the new hardware holes in to all cabinets and drawers. After that, we were ready have some fun with the compressor and paint gun!
We ended up painting the frames by hand and then painted the cabinets using the HLVP gun at about 55-60 PSI. After the first coat, we lightly sanded to ensure a smooth finish. We ended up only having to do 2 coats of plaint plus a little touch up to get full coverage because of how efficient the gun was. After painting 2 coats, and also applying the darker paint to the bar to provide contrast, we reinstall... keep reading on reddit ➡
Last year, we made a "clicking" mouth stylus for a trached friend in the ICU.
I unfortunately don't have the time to make and give away a bunch of them, but if people are interested and have access to a 3D printer, this mouthpiece is a really good starting point. The other pieces can be found at walmart, hardware stores, harbor freight, ect. (a telescoping magnet tool, a stylus tip, a small pipe clamp, and tiny spring. I can make an assembly tutorial video of all the pieces if people are interested).
You can simply stick a stylus in the tip of it if you'd like too. But the clickable one (you click it with your tongue) is nice too, because it's easier to use in bed, doesn't tire your neck as easily, and gives you a little bit more control than using your head to click.
Feel free to reach out if you have any questions!
With my orders increasing and doing batch work, I am getting tired of drilling hundreds of pocket holes with my simple clamp style pocket jig I have from harbor freight. At first I thought about investing in the Kreg Foreman drill machine, but I keep seeing wood workers comment that glue is stronger than any screw and the wood will fail before any good glue bond would.
So my question is if anyone here has glued their deck tops without any screws or nails?
What are your concerns with just gluing the tops to the frame versus screwing?
I plan on doing doing a build with just glue for the tops to see how this process will fair.
I've shopped for numerous portable chairs of the years. None of them have been worth a darn for doing real work with a laptop. I found an abandoned lounge chair once, that worked pretty well for a few years until it fell apart. I was never able to figure out who made that chair.
Eventually I just gave up. I'd spend most of my time sitting at a picnic table. Sometimes a grocery store with wifi would have good patio furniture, or sometimes it would be horrible. Sometimes I'd just sit cross-legged on the ground to get the wifi. That gets old after an hour or two.
COVID-19 has caused me to hide under a relative's roof, possibly for the duration of the plague. This has given me enough time to try to solve the problem once and for all. On the cheap.
I did a major woodworking project a long time ago, a stand for a wooden dummy for Wing Chun. It disassembled. It had 96 construction screws in it! Good grief. This time I thought I would use big nails, thinking they might be easier to work with. Well I had a learning curve about what they're good and not so good at.
This was my 2nd design. The 1st one, a T-shaped wood stabilizer trailed out the back. There was no seat. I thought I was going to be a clever minimalist and sit on the floor. All I needed was a back brace. Well what I succeeded in making was a wedge that scooted backwards when I leaned on it! And if I put it against a wall to stop that, it would rotate into the wall. Good grief! I thought my minimalist seat back was so clever, but I learned that I'd have to design a seat too. For reasons of physics and comfort.
The seat is made out of little bits of wood, cut from a 2x4, with that Japanese style hand saw. Such a saw works on the pull stroke, not the push. Less power but more control. Cost me $10 at Harbor Freight and it's a winner. I learned how thick wood can and can't be, using 3.25" common nails. I learned how putting a matrix of wood together can be difficult. This was important for more complicated design layouts later, some of which I declined to do, because they didn't have a good fitting order for all the nails.
The back works. The seat was not comfortable. Worse, the slight elevation of one's legs off the ground, puts tremendous hyperflexion on the knees. This chair is somewhat ok for sitting in a modified squa... keep reading on reddit ➡
I am not a woodworker. Never took shop class. And the extent of my knowledge is some basic safety to not lose a finger. So the bf put me to build a craft table. The table top is 3/4" melamine board. I know the blade isn't bent and doesn't wobble and the alignment checks out on the circular saw. The plate is flat and the blade is 90 degrees to it.
Starting with a 4' by 4' panel I tried to it down to 42" by 42", with my Ryobi circular saw that has a front handle, and new blade meant for melamine boards. I free handed it, by following the line that was drawn on where to cut.
Needless to say, the cuts were wobbled, crooked and definitely weren't straight. Though I didn't tear up the melamine surface so that is a plus.
Boyfriend wasn't too pleased, explained that is the best I can do. Was directed to watch some youtube videos to learn. I already know that watching and doing are two different things. So I know this to be a fruitless pointless endeavour and waste of my time. And doomed to failure
Building an ugly functional desk is good enough for me. But that isn't acceptable for reasons, so go at it anyway.
Needless to say. Using a cheap harbor freight clamp saw guide. With the board placed on 2" foam insulation board, as some video recommend. I attempt to square up that panel by cutting it down to 41" by 41". Did this on a work table and then tried it on the floor, with similar set up.
Still cuts are all wobbled and shit. Despite my best efforts. I couldn't keep the front or the back of the saw plate from drifting away from the saw guide. As I tried to make these long cuts that exceeds the length of my arms and still hold it correctly. It was very frustrating. Couldn't cut straight.
After many many cuts, ruining the board and getting fed up. Throwing the garbage away, called it quits.
I have mechanical experience, working on pumps and valves, nuts and bolts and shit. And the extent of my electrical knowledge is wiring a switch or plug and using those twisty things and how to appropriately apply tape to seal something. BF is convinced that should translate into carpentry. I like to think I am not the crazy one here with unrealistic expectations. When I need to cut wood, I use a miter saw for a reason, not a circular saw to make straight cuts.
Regardless. I like to think that this shouldn't be hard, it is just that I don't have the muscle memory to be good at it.
So how difficult is it to cut straight on melamine board... keep reading on reddit ➡
Decided that I needed to create a workspace for me to work on that's not just a plastic folding table in the middle of the garage. I had recently just gotten a bunch of tools and wanted to put them to use to build a spot to organize them as well. This was my first shot at designing something so complex from the ground up and building it all myself. I'd only done very simple projects before, screwing a few 2x4's together and such.
Decided to build 20"x48" workbench with a lower shelf and upper shelf that would measure 60" high. Needed to make it exactly 48" wide so that it'd fit in a little nook in my garage between my breaker box and where my stairs jut into the garage
This was the plan I drew up on my iPad using an Apple Pencil. I initially tried using Sketch Up to make a rendering of the work bench but I couldn't figure it out and gave up. I did a wrong calculation for the top shelf plywood, it should be 10\"x48\" instead of 10\"x45\". Learned a valuable lesson in measuring twice, cutting once.
I then used this Google Sheets to estimate what cuts and lengths I needed to cut out of each piece of 2x4, as well as how much plywood wood and how many of what length of screw I would need. I initially forgot to take into account the width of the blade of the miter saw I'd be using to cut the wood, so I had to re-configure the 2x4 cuts to leave at least a few inches extra in each 8 foot 2x4. The only exception were for the 60\" cuts, because those didn't have to be exactly 60\", as long as I had 4 pieces that were about 60\" that were the same length.
[ Here's my initial haul. That's 11x 8 foot pieces of Douglas Fir 2x4's. I needed to have the shop make one cut in each one to fit it in my car, so I looked at my Google Sheets and just picked the longest cut for each 8 foot piece. I also found an old peg board that were exactly the measurements I needed at my mom's house. She used to blow up balloons to stick in the holds so my friends and I could throw darts at them at my birthday partie... keep reading on reddit ➡
I've wanted to build a Sellers workbench for the better part of 1- 2 years. What stopped me on multiple occasions was the work to put forth, as well as the lack of proper hand tools. Where I finally decided to pull the trigger was a small box I made for our bathroom - more specifically using a block plane to chamfer the sharp edges. It kind of hooked me there.
After watching Paul's workbench videos a couple of more times, I began to acquire some tools - #4 Stanley Plane, honing guide for sharpen iron, clamps, etc. Obviously I looked through dimensions sheet, google/reddit searched for other people building the bench, etc.
Where I became the most frustrated was the lack of specifics into the build for everyone across the board. It was mostly "Megh I disagree with you building this bench because of X reason. You should do this instead". No. Fuck that. I wanted to do this and I wanted details into the build. Not Willy the Woodworker telling me why I or any other person should or shouldn't be doing something. To clarify, I live on specifics of details. It can drive people nuts, but that's the way I'm wired and I wanted more information than anyone, even more than Paul had provided.
As mentioned previously, I truly despised finding lazy posts of other builds i.e. failing to follow-up on their build, what boards they chose, problems they came across, mistakes they made, etc. Or posts that had been hi-jacked by countless amounts of criticism. With that, I've decided to document my process as I go and I'm not going to half-ass it.
I want to provide my experience from start to finish, every detail along the way. I want to do it first and foremost for myself, but also for other people looking to dive into this process. Paul's philosophy is to share his knowledge of the craft with others as much as possible - so I feel I have an obligation to uphold that responsibility as well since I'm using his design.
These posts will be lengthy. They may be 4 months apart. I may type in circles. Some parts may be corny. But I'm going to at least make it a goal to share my experience. So here we go.
Supporting pictures: https://imgur.com/a/K682rUw
Every time you find yourself in Home Depot, Harbor Freight, Ace, you local mom and pop or whatever, add one clamp to whatever you're buying. Spending a bunch of money on a project? Toss in an expensive specialty clamp. Spending a couple bucks on a box of nails? Grab a cheap spring clamp. One day you'll wake up and realize you have a ton of clamps without the pain of dropping a big bag of cash on clamps all at once.
I'm building a frame to hold my lathe tools. Most of it is straightforward, but there's one part that I'm not sure how to handle correctly. Here's a picture of the frame: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1J5EhNNWuuFZfPj4WxiG-vG7784nu5_Zt/view?usp=sharing
The right-hand vertical members sit at a 15 degree skew. They're 1 x 1 angle iron. The bottom members they attach to are 1-inch square tubing, and the top piece they attach to is the bottom of a small frame made of the same angle iron. The mitered section is facing you in that image.
Not having any 15 degree fixtures, I'm at a bit of a loss as to how to clamp this in a way to prevent significant warping. The best process I can come up with is this:
This is made somewhat complicated by the fact that my welding table is both (A) small and (B) not even remotely close to square (it's the cheapo Harbor Freight fold-away table), so I'm not sure that this procedure will actually put me in square. Does anyone have advice for getting this weld done? I just want to do what everyone wants: keep it aligned correctly, and keep it from warping.
Covid-19 cases have been increasing in my area so I cut off all social interaction a couple weeks ago, which also means I have not been able to do any offroad riding during that time (I never ride offroad alone). It seemed like an ideal time to add some of the stuff I have been contemplating over the last year.
Last week I added some Doubletake mirrors, which I really like a lot. Better view behind me, by far, compared to the stock mirrors on my '16. Then I decided to add the aluminum skid plate that I have been wanting for quite some time now. I ultimately settled on the JNS plate and I am really glad I did. Unlike some of the other aftermarket plates out there, the JNS bolts up to the original screw holes. For some unknown reason, they supply two different length screws for the upper and lower mounting points. I found the shorter screws to be too short for the location they were supposed to be used for so I hit the local Ace Hardware and picked up some slightly longer stainless steel bolts. I added some blue locktite to make sure they stay put.
The JNS skid plate costs a little more than some others but I am really glad I chose it. It is really strong and has a dark gray powercoat finish on it. JNS seems to also be the only manufacturer who has skid plate models specified to work with each of the various engine guards out there. I bought the one for use with the Tusk bars on my bike.
Then I decided to change out the folding milk crate that I have been using for most of the last year:
for some of those stacking tool boxes that have been discussed here before. Typically people seem to be using the Harbor Freight boxes but I avoid buying anything there if I can get it elsewhere, so I went with the Ridgid brand boxes sold by Home Depot. I mounted the shallow box to the rear rack, so it stays in place all the time.
Mounting it was pretty easy and required very few tools. This method would probably work fine for any manufacturer's tool box.
Inside I used metric button head screws with fender washers:
Underneath I used 3/4" EMT conduit two screw pipe clamps with Nylock nuts:
I just positioned the box where I wanted it on the rear rack, marked around the grab bars with a Sharpie, then laid the clamp across the marked out area a... keep reading on reddit ➡
I'm GOING to be a new wood worker in the near future. Before getting started I wanted some advice, tips, things to know etc.
I also wanted your all's opinion on a couple of tool brands..
Hart (Walmart) vs Ryobi (Home Depot) vs Hercules (Harbor Freight)
I also was curious what you all thought was must have tools for someone who is brand new, cares about budget, plans to do small home improvement and easy DIY projects.
I was thinking a circular saw, a drill, speed squares and clamps (I don't know what type of clamp yet, not the most fun thing to research. Lol)
All opinions are appreciated. Thank you in advance!
Hey all, I figured Id post about my recent project in review.
Im a beginner wood worker, and Due to some family stuff I have found myself at home reflecting on the kind of father I want to be and some of the deeper questions in life. Mid life crisis? not quite, but quarter life for sure. One thing I have decided lately is that I dont want to be a "Do as I say, not as I do" father. That being said, Im pushing forward and pursuing more personal dreams. Woodworking being a Huge one. Ive decided that Id like to be able to give back to the community as I pursue my goal. Off of this post, I am going to share some pictures and elaborate on them. The goal is that someone reading this will be able to take something from it, and do better than I.
That being said, this is a Free plan I followed from Ana white. If you havent heard of her, shes a wonderful resource to begin your journey in woodworking. Google Ana white and check out her free plans. (hope im not breaking any rules by saying that!) I started this build at home depot grabbing all of my supplies and rushing through them trying to be out of the store in a timely manner, and there was my first mistake. If you are going to shop for your lumber, take the time to really make sure your getting what you want to the best of your ability. Dont just rush through. Construction grade lumber isnt known for being perfect or remotely close to it. I grabbed 2x6's, did my once over on them and called them good, even though they were pretty darn bowed. I payed for this later. The 1x10 I grabbed was the last one available and you knew why when you looked at it and lastly the 2x4's were pretty chewed up. Definitley do what you can do and deal with what is around you, but if I were to go back I would actually take the time to do the above statement.
In this project, I had my first start with wood putty. I used this putty more like bondo than wood filler, but hey it was all I had. There were some pretty messed up sides with those 2x4's. I used the DAP wood filler, and applied it to my checks in the wood as well as the "holes" in the lumber. I ran into a few instances where I couldnt just fill a hole, and there would be a huge piece missing from the side. To combat this I took the board with the damaged side and placed it in a vice. I then proceeded to take a scrap piece of metal and use my torch and hammer to mold it around the board. Then I slathered that side in wood filler and used this roughly shaped, 45 degree angle p... keep reading on reddit ➡
Construction ought to be fairly self-evident, but here's the DIY instructions:
Grab whatever scrap of wood you have in your scrap bin
Grab whatever screws you have (preferably shorter than your scrap is thick)
Grab a pack or two of those mini spring clamps at harbor freight; a buck for 6.
Screw one arm of the clamps to the wood, spaced about one hand apart. No need to worry about pilot holes in the clamps or anything, just hork that screw right though the plastic.
Attach the wood to a wall somewhere, preferably hitting studs so you can just jerk the gloves out of the clamps without ripping the wood off the wall, instead of having to actually squeeze open the clamps to remove the gloves.
Last year, I wanted to work on projects, but I had developed a weird trepidation about it, so I decided to just freestyle building this firewood shelter from scratch:
My goal was "no pressure!" I had planned it on a scrap of note paper at work, borrowing just one or two elements from a much more robust plan I found online. As I casually sawed some of the wood over time, I eyeballed a height and did some trigonometry to set an appropriate front-back height difference to get the right roof angle. Then it took me two days to construct, only because I had to leave and go somewhere that first day.
I used: A hand saw, a plastic yellow mitre box, some 2" construction screws I had lying around from another project, a Drill Master pocket hole jig from Harbor Freight, some clamps, a basic power drill, heat-treated 2"x4" studs (bought the 8' long ones because they fit in my little sedan), and 3/4" exterior plywood for the roof. The plywood was by far the most expensive component, at like $17 including Home Depot cutting it to size for free, and the pocket hole jig was probably the most expensive tool at $50-some. Yes, I know stud wood isn't perfect and long-lasting, but all it has to do is sit outside and not fall apart for a while. I also got two 16" cement blocks to use as a base.
First, I used my jig to construct the base of the shelter. The pocket jig was a breeze to use! However, I only own one little face clamp and a little corner clamp, and I discovered that the corner clamp is too small to handle one of the two types of butt joints I wanted to do. So I used it as a second face clamp. I thought that was pretty clever at the time.
It did work for the other joint.
After constructing the bottom and sides, I measured out and cut all the pieces that would hold the top of the stand together. But I could only attach the front and back ones before I had to leave for something. And one of the front ones had a janky gap. This is where I ended the day.
[Janky gap seen on the... keep reading on reddit ➡
Sanding is the least favorite part of projects for most woodworkers. It was definitely mine. I'm starting to hate it less and less though despite being no expert and you guys liked my thing on lumber yards so I figured I'd give this topic a go.
Here's the fundamental problem: people naturally want to work on things they're good at. It's fun and gratifying to pump out projects like what they've done and they can both admire their work and get better at something they feel good at. People as a rule don't generally focus on their weaknesses, things they feel bad at and get no joy out of things they struggle with. I'm here to help. Despite definitely being /r/BeginnerWoodWorking and not a professional finish carpenter or luthier or something I have tried very hard to learn about sanding in the past year. Here are some tips that I'll confine to reasonable DIY/homeowner/beginner price ranges (so I'll leave out 1k+ drum sanders etc.):
T.L.D.R.: Trying to use shortcuts or ignore sanding are the cause of your pains, and there is no TLDR for all of this information.
What do people have right now
Most woodworkers have sheets of sandpaper, a cheap random orbital sander (I'll use ROS for short), and a few grits of hook and look paper for their random orbital sander. Some of you may also have a sanding block and maybe a cheap "finish sander" (one of the ones for edges and tight places). It's not your favorite thing so you'd rather spend money on fun parts of the hobby like saws and wood.
What problems do people have because of this limited set of tools and "get it over with" approach
I needed to remove about a dozen shrubs and small trees to make room for a shed and got quoted $1250 from the cheapest tree service (one quoted us $5k). I remembered my dad pulling fence posts with a jack when I was very young, so I googled it. Sure enough, youtube is rife with people using a hi-lift or hazard fraught farm jack to pull things. Well, I just did it a dozen times and got up trees much larger than those shown on Youtube and I thought I'd share my tips.
We just ordered my wife a fat tire eBike (Sondors) and I am looking into ways of hauling it, along with 2 mountain bikes, on my SUV. I have 2 trunk mount bike carriers and a hitch mount one currently, none of which I will work with the eBike.
I am considering getting the Dirt Bike Hitch Carrier from Harbor Freight for the Sondors and then affixing the hitch mount carrier to the support tube of that (using 2" receiver clamps).
I am curious what other thoughts are around this or other ideas. I'd prefer to not spend 600 bucks on a specialty rack for the purpose and I like having flexibility in using what I own.