Im sure that the new automatics are better then the manuals like the 2018 mustang one but what about like 2005 or 2010 or even 2015 are the autos better in those?
I had the thought recently of a sequential automatic transmission, but where pulling the steering-wheel paddles electrically disconnects a clutch until you let go.
So, for example, to downshift, you might pull the paddle and hold it while rev-matching with the throttle, then release the paddle to engage the clutch (and the lower gear). It would end up feeling a lot like driving a motorcycle, as I'm imagining it.
Has this kind of transmission ever been built? I'm curious to find out. I'm not having much luck on google.
Thanks!
I would love to hear folks' thoughts/experiences related to the reliability of the the 2013-14 Outback 3.6R Limited, with the automatic transmission, vs. a 2016 3.6R Limited, which has a CVT.
Some background:
- I am looking to purchase a used Outback for hiking/camping/road trips/mountain excursions, as a daily driver, and to use as a part-time micro-camper.
- I found that I prefer the power/acceleration of the 3.6R engine compared to the 2.5i - especially for highway merging, driving in the mountains/at higher elevation, etc.
- I am waiting to purchase a vehicle with Eyesight.
- I hope to have a vehicle last me for the next 7-10 years with as few repairs as possible other than routine maintenance.
- I've never purchased a vehicle with more than 30k miles so have some hesitation around buying a 'higher' mileage used vehicle - and also want to keep my purchase price as reasonably low as I can!
Would love advice - would you purchase/recommend:
- 2013 or 2014 Outback 3.6R Limited - automatic transmission, likely to have higher mileage (80-110k), is a few years older, much harder to find with Eyesight as it was an add-on, likely to be a little less expensive ($17-18k out the door)
- 2016 Outback 3.6R Limited - has a CVT (and seems to have an extended powertrain warranty for 10 years / 100k miles due to the CVT warranty extension program), slightly newer, easier to find with lower mileage (50-70k), higher price point ($22k out the door if lucky)
Is the CVT / automatic transmission a distinction to dwell on or less of a consideration than some of these other factors like mileage? Any/all thoughts & advice welcome!
My 2011 BMW 328i has been a bit rough as of recent, my car has 104k miles on it, and I bought it 6k miles ago. Would it be worthwhile for me to change my transmission fluid? I heard if I do that I should only drain half of the fluid and put the another half in with new stuff.
Yes, you should always pull over when conditions deteriorate. However, weather apps and reports aren't perfect.
im not really sure but I'm assuming this theory would work?
I have a 2009 forester and it's starting to slow up a little at 97k miles, I find when changing gears they jump around a little, and sometimes if push the car on a hill it can be pretty sluggish. Was talking to mechanic and just by looking at my past service records he wants to do a whole bunch of things such as change the automatic transmission fluid, transfer case fluid, rear diff fluid, brake fluid flush, pcv valve, fuel system flush. From my limited knowledge, a lot of these things do not seem necessary except maybe the pcv valve change. I have particular concern over the automatic transmission fluid since I have read some things saying that it can actually damage the transmission. Was curious on thoughts about this since there seems to be a lot of opinions, mostly that an older car gets used to the dirty fluid and a change can damage if not break the transmission.
He also wanted to do the timing belt which needs to be done but I was hoping to wait for another 5k or so.
Hey guys, just wanted to see if anyone did an automatic transmission tune here. I know automatics aren’t very popular here but maybe someone could tell me if a transmission tune makes more sense than an engine tune.
I have some bolt one but it’s NA. I was hoping to tune my automatic to hold gears for longer, closer to like 6k on every gear or whatever the optimal shift time is for each gear for most performance. Correct me if I’m wrong but 350z automatic transmission from factory comes with most fuel economy shifts so my understanding was that a tune can make the transmission hold gears for longer to get more performance.
Thoughts?
I have a 2013 Dodge Avenger 2.5L (4 cylinder) and I've been looking for some good transmission fluids and the Mobil 1 Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid Synthetic ATF caught my eye after doing research ,but when I look up what kind of transmission fluid it takes it says I should use ATF+4. The Mobil 1 transmission seems to be superior and I want the best thing for my car. I'm not a car guy as you can tell but I just need help.
Sorry if this is not the right place to ask this question but just wanted to see if anybody knows.. I’m new to Toyotas
looking for a gif I saw how long ago on Reddit. I'm guessing it's from one of the fast and the furious movies but I can't say for sure.
it's a short gift that starts overlooking a car or maybe two cars clearly racing each other. the camera then moves into one of the cars and focuses on the driver. the driver makes a motion like he's about to downshift aggressively to accelerate. the camera then pans to the car's shifter; but instead it being a manual transmission shifter, it's just somebody shifting an automatic car from park into drive.
Issue: When I'm accelerating in 3rd gear (automatic transmission), my RPMs will increase as the car gains speed until a certain threshold, then the RPMs will lower slightly while the car is still accelerating, then they will resume climbing. There is no loss of power or anything like that. If you couldn't hear the engine or see the tac you wouldn't know this was happening.
I can't seem to figure out what to even call this so I can research it. I guess I'll ask what this is called and is it a sign of trouble?
Hi all, long time lurker. I recently found out that the 996 uses the 722.6 transmission which is the same transmission in my amg’s. I plan on selling one of them to get my first ever Porsche. Anyway, the point of this post is if the bulletproofness went to the Porsche drivetrain too since its known to be stout in the Mercedes ones. Are they problematic? If yes what is it that fails?
My ideal 996 would be the one with the 722.6 transmission. I really want a Carrera 4 or 4S and if they have that trans then it would be the icing on top.
I hope these types of posts are allowed since the rules or about section doesn’t mention anything
Also, the 722.6 and 722.9 can be modded for better performance so it’s another reason why I would prefer it
I recently found a manual transmission that is in good condition for my 2000 Subaru. I’m going to be preforming the swap myself and was looking to see if anyone had any tips or reminders. It’s going to be my first time doing this and am open to ALL input. Thank you for your time!
So my dad just bought himself a jeep that is manual transmission which means Im gonna have to learn how to drive manual now cus theres no way my mom will let me drive her car. I already know how to drive automatic but never drove a manual before and I'm kinda nervous tbh. But I also think it'll be fun bc automatic can be boring and i be spacing out when i drive sometimes. Do yall prefer automatic or manual? (If you do drive)
Ignore any odd sounds the transmission may make, that is just the starter gear being selected.
Hey, sorry if this is not the right place to post. I'm not extremely knowledgeable about cars but i know enough to maintain my car (fluids, bulbs, guess on whats broken).
I've got a 1989 Acura Integra LS with an automatic transmission. The car has ~245,000 miles on it and the transmission is original. Daily driver for my grandparents, then mom, then sister, now me with probably 25% of those miles being on the highway. Currently in really good condition except for some malfunction with the dashboard buttons.
My question is, should i preemptively replace my transmission? I know most of the time people suggest waiting until it actually fails, but i really want to keep it in good condition and use it for a very long (4,000+ miles) trip across country without being stranded. What are the chances of it failing (probably high)?
Final question, I know that this is a relatively rare car, so i assume the replacement of the transmission would be quite expensive, but how much should i really expect to have to pay?
edit: i really want to take my car because i'm doing this trip also because i love driving (my car)
Any helpful input especially from mechanics would be much appreciated.
