Basically the title. Would the transition from mechanical to electrical timing not simplify engine design and lessen problems? Is there a major flaw that I'm missing or is it just the saying of "If it ain't broke, don't fix it"?
I want release the pressure of a CO2 (e.g. 16g) cartridge as fast as possible. Can this be done with a solenoid valve? Most solenoids that I have seen are only for 10bar and a CO2 cartridge has 60bar (I think). Has someone made experiences with such high pressure and solenoids or do you have a different idea how I can electrically release high pressure?
24VDC, fail open valves. I repeat: normally open valves. I replace the solenoids way too often. Some have lasted only a few weeks.
These valves spend most of their time unpowered. When the irrigation system is in use, the pump activates and the solenoids turn ON, closing the valve until the system is ready to spray. This only lasts a few moments at a time.
Then the solenoids turn OFF to open the valves for spraying. At the end of the run the solenoids briefly turn on to avoid overwatering, then the pump shuts down and the solenoids go back to unpowered, letting water drain from the system out the nozzles.
So what would be eating these things? A snubber circuit would protect the relays, not the solenoids, right?
Edit: to be clear, the valves are A-OK. It is the solenoid actuators that are dying on me.
Hey all, washing machine stopped filling with water the other day and I'm assuming it's due to a faulty solenoid valve.
Took the part out and checked it with a multimeter. Neither of the coils show any resistance or continuity.
Is it normal that both coils go out at the same time or did I somehow test it wrong?
Trying to help out my mom with a project of turning her old sprinkler system into a drip system since they recently removed all the grass in the front yard. Currently, they have all of these solenoid valves uncovered in the front and hooked up to an irrigation controller. I live in Idaho while my parents live in California so my sprinkler system is rigged up a bit different than this.
At my house, I set up my drip system to a hose faucet with a backflow preventer > pressure regulator > timer > 1/2" tube adapter and it was pretty simple.
What's the best way to do that with these solenoid valves? Looking at these valves, I'm not sure of the best way to take them apart to hook up those additions. I also found a pre-built system like this but not entirely sure how to remove the current system to install these - https://store.ewingirrigation.com/12007630-pgv-1-inch-drip-control-zone-kit-with-25-psi-regulator
Any help or suggestions are appreciated.
The head of the bolt sticks all the way out like it isn't screwed all the way in. Is it suppose to look like that?
I'm in need of help concerning this circuit of transistor I made.
The circuit is made to convert a µC command (more precisely a digital output) that varies from of 0V - 5V (whether a PWM or digital high/low signal) to 0V - 12V (which comes from a power supply).
First, the µC signal (identified as "In" in the schematic) drives the first Q1 transistor and through the change in current passing in Q1, that same current drives the base of Q2 therefore applying a voltage that ranges from 0-12V.
The output voltage is then applied to a solenoid valve of 12V (in parallel of the Q2 transistor).
Now the thing is, every time the solenoid is connected in parallel to the Q2 transistor, the voltage drops drastically and the solenoid is not activated.
That maybe explained by the R2 resistor being in series with the solenoid (since the solenoid is connected in parallel to Q2). It makes RL circuit in series which result in charging the inductor and thus reduce the output voltage of the circuit.
But when I remove the connection the voltage goes back to 12V.
I understand that the inductor component (solenoid) is resisting the change in current but I don't understand why the voltage drops drastically?
I added a fly back diode to protect the transistor but still the issue remains.
Can you guys help me out on this one? I'm open to all inputs!
Many thanks to all!
My Solenoid is stuck closed on my 2008 type S and cleaning it had no results. My question is should I disconnect my vacuum line so that my engine has the proper airflow? Or is that worse than leaving it connected to a closed valve? My assumption would be to disconnect it but I’m not confident and it’ll be a few days before I get my new part in. Thanks!
CEL came on and went away by itself. Then it idled rough once. Took it to Acura dealership to have them check and they said the VTC Oil Control Solenoid valve needs to be replaced.
I'm trying to figure out where this part is and what it looks like.
Is it easy for a layperson to reach and replace? If it's relatively difficult to access, then I will just have the dealership do it.